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maisacademy > Blog > Travels > “Beyond Rome and Venice: 10 Best Places to Visit in Italy That Locals Keep Secret”
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“Beyond Rome and Venice: 10 Best Places to Visit in Italy That Locals Keep Secret”

aminul
Last updated: June 8, 2025 9:00 am
By aminul 196 Min Read
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"Beyond Rome and Venice: 10 Best Places to Visit in Italy That Locals Keep Secret"
"Beyond Rome and Venice: 10 Best Places to Visit in Italy That Locals Keep Secret"
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Ever been caught in a two-hour line just to glimpse the Colosseum, while sweating through your favorite vacation outfit? Yeah, that’s not the real Italy.

Contents
Tuscany’s Hidden Gems Beyond FlorenceA. Montepulciano: Wine Paradise with Renaissance ArchitectureB. Pitigliano: The Little Jerusalem Carved in TufaC. Bagno Vignoni: Thermal Baths with Medieval CharmD. Barga: Colorful Mountain Town with Scottish ConnectionsSicily’s Secret Coastlines and VillagesA. Cefalù: Arab-Norman Beauty Without the CrowdsB. Scopello: Crystal Waters and Ancient Tuna FactoryC. Marzamemi: Fishing Village with Photogenic PiazzasD. Ortigia: Syracuse’s Historic Island CoreE. Favignana: Turquoise Waters on the Egadi IslandsNorthern Italian TreasuresBergamo: Medieval Citadel with Alpine ViewsTrieste: Coffee Culture with Habsburg GrandeurTrento: Renaissance Splendor in the DolomitesPuglia Beyond the Tourist HotspotsA. Locorotondo: White-washed Perfection in Valle d’ItriaB. Martina Franca: Baroque Elegance and Summer OperaC. Otranto: Fortress Town with Byzantine MosaicsD. Gargano Peninsula: Forest Meets Sea in Italy’s SpurUmbria’s Medieval Time CapsulesA. Spello: Flower-Draped Stone Streets and Roman RelicsB. Bevagna: Artisan Workshops in Medieval SettingsC. Montefalco: Panoramic Views and Sagrantino WineD. Gubbio: Ancient Tradition and Mountain SettingCoastal Escapes Off the Tourist MapA. Ponza: Rome’s Secret Island GetawayB. Procida: Candy-Colored Fishing Village Before the FameC. Camogli: Ligurian Beauty Without Cinque Terre CrowdsFood-Focused Destinations for Culinary ExplorersA. Modena: Balsamic Vinegar and World-Class DiningB. Alba: White Truffle Heaven in PiedmontC. Norcia: Preserved Meat Paradise in Umbria’s MountainsD. Trapani: Sicilian Couscous and Salt Flat CuisineMountain Retreats with Authentic CultureA. Matera’s Surrounding Villages: Beyond the SassiB. Abruzzo National Park: Wildlife and Mountain CuisineC. South Tyrol’s Hidden Valleys: Germanic Italy at its FinestArt Cities Without the Tourist BusesA. Mantua: Renaissance Masterpieces in Peaceful SettingsB. Ravenna: Byzantine Mosaics in a Relaxed AtmosphereC. Urbino: Ducal Palace and Renaissance PerfectionD. Lucca: Preserved Walls and Musical HeritageInsider Tips for Experiencing Hidden ItalyBest Seasons to Visit Secret SpotsTransportation Tricks Only Locals KnowLanguage Phrases That Open DoorsHow to Blend In and Experience Authentic Local Life

The Italy that Italians actually love exists beyond the tourist traps, in places where menus don’t have photos and nobody’s trying to sell you a selfie stick.

These hidden gems of Italy offer authentic experiences without the Instagram crowds. We’ve tracked down 10 destinations where you can discover the country’s true magic – places locals would rather keep secret.

What makes these spots special isn’t just the lack of tourists. It’s something else entirely, something you won’t find in any guidebook…

Tuscany’s Hidden Gems Beyond Florence

Tuscany's Hidden Gems Beyond Florence

A. Montepulciano: Wine Paradise with Renaissance Architecture

You’ve probably heard of Tuscany’s iconic Chianti region, but if you want to taste some of the most spectacular wines in Italy without the tourist crowds, Montepulciano is your answer.

Hidden away on a limestone ridge 605 meters above sea level, this medieval town looks like something straight out of a postcard. Walking through its narrow, winding streets feels like stepping back in time. The stone buildings have stood for centuries, watching silently as empires rose and fell.

What makes Montepulciano special? The wine, of course! The town produces Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – a red wine so good they named it “noble.” And trust me, it lives up to its name. It’s made primarily from Sangiovese grapes (locally called Prugnolo Gentile) and has been considered one of Italy’s best wines since the 1300s.

The best part about wine tasting here is how different it feels from the commercialized experiences in more famous regions. You’ll find yourself in ancient cellars dug directly into the tufa rock beneath the town, sipping wine where it’s been made for centuries. Many cantinas are family-owned, and you might meet the actual winemaker pouring your tasting.

Try Contucci, one of the oldest wineries in Italy, operating since the Renaissance. Their underground cellars are a maze of history, and the wines – especially their Vino Nobile Riserva – will make you understand why wine enthusiasts make pilgrimages here.

Beyond wine, Montepulciano’s architecture will stop you in your tracks. The town reached its cultural peak during the Renaissance, and the buildings show it. The Piazza Grande sits at the highest point, surrounded by stunning palazzos that wealthy merchant families built to outdo each other.

The Palazzo Comunale looks like a mini version of Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio (and that’s no accident – it was designed to mirror it). Climb the tower for views that stretch all the way to Siena on a clear day.

Don’t miss the Temple of San Biagio just outside the city walls. This Renaissance masterpiece by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder is perfectly proportioned and built entirely of golden travertine stone that glows at sunset.

Hungry after all that wine? Duck into Osteria Acquacheta, where you’ll sit at communal wooden tables and feast on bistecca alla fiorentina (Tuscan steak) sliced with theatrical flair. Or try La Grotta, housed in a medieval building near San Biagio, for perfect pici – thick, hand-rolled pasta that’s a Tuscan specialty.

The locals will tell you to visit during September’s Bravio delle Botti festival, when the town’s eight districts compete by rolling 80kg wine barrels uphill through the steep streets. It’s absolute madness and utterly unforgettable.

B. Pitigliano: The Little Jerusalem Carved in Tufa

Rising dramatically from a tufa rock plateau, Pitigliano looks like it’s growing straight out of the cliff. This is the kind of place that makes you stop your car in the middle of the road just to stare. The honey-colored medieval town seems to merge with the rock it stands on, creating one of the most jaw-dropping sights in all of Tuscany.

What most visitors don’t know is that Pitigliano has a fascinating Jewish history that earned it the nickname “Little Jerusalem.” Beginning in the 16th century, when Jews were persecuted throughout much of Italy, Pitigliano became a safe haven under the protection of the Orsini family. The Jewish community thrived here for centuries.

The Jewish ghetto is unlike any other in Italy. Instead of being a place of confinement, it became the heart of a thriving community. Walking through the narrow streets of the Jewish quarter today, you’ll discover a restored synagogue, ritual bath (mikveh), kosher butcher, bakery, and wine cellar – all carved directly into the soft tufa rock.

The synagogue is particularly moving. Restored after suffering damage during World War II, its simple elegance speaks volumes about the community that worshipped here. The azure blue ceiling decorated with stars represents the heavens, while the wooden ark houses ancient Torah scrolls.

During Passover, you can still taste local Jewish-Italian specialties like sfratti – stick-shaped cookies filled with honey, walnuts, and orange peel that commemorate the “eviction sticks” used to knock on doors when Jews were forced into ghettos in other cities.

Beyond its Jewish heritage, Pitigliano offers endless opportunities to get lost in medieval passageways. The entire town is crisscrossed with vie cave – ancient sunken roads carved up to 20 meters deep into the tufa rock by the mysterious Etruscans over 2,500 years ago. These mysterious pathways connect Pitigliano with neighboring towns and create a magical underground world to explore.

For the best experience, arrive in Pitigliano at dusk. That’s when the town earns its other nickname – “The Little Jerusalem of Italy” – as the golden stone catches the last rays of sunlight and seems to glow from within. Find a spot at a café in Piazza San Gregorio and watch as the town transforms into a golden crown atop the cliffs.

The local white wine, Bianco di Pitigliano DOC, is the perfect companion for an evening here. Made primarily from Trebbiano grapes, it’s crisp, mineral-rich, and the ideal match for another local specialty – crespelle alla castellana (savory crepes with ricotta and spinach).

For the most authentic stay, book a room at La Casa degli Archi, where you’ll sleep in a medieval building with walls carved from the same tufa rock as the town itself. The owners, Marco and Elena, share fascinating stories about Pitigliano’s hidden corners and can direct you to a little-known viewpoint where the entire town is reflected in the valley below on misty mornings.

C. Bagno Vignoni: Thermal Baths with Medieval Charm

Ever seen a town with a thermal pool instead of a main square? That’s Bagno Vignoni for you – arguably Tuscany’s most unusual village and definitely one of its best-kept secrets.

This tiny hamlet in the heart of Val d’Orcia has been built around a 16th-century stone pool filled with steaming thermal water. Instead of the traditional piazza with a church or town hall, Bagno Vignoni’s central “square” is this 49-meter-long, bubbling thermal basin known as the “Square of Sources.”

The Romans discovered these healing waters over 2,000 years ago, but it was during the Middle Ages that Bagno Vignoni gained fame as a healing center. Pilgrims traveling the Via Francigena (the ancient pilgrim route from Canterbury to Rome) would stop here to soak their weary feet and treat various ailments.

Even Saint Catherine of Siena came here to take the waters, as did Lorenzo the Magnificent from the powerful Medici family. The pool you see today dates from the time of the Medicis, who rebuilt much of the village in the 16th century.

While you can’t swim in the historic central pool anymore (it’s protected as a monument), you can experience the same thermal waters at the modern Terme di Bagno Vignoni or, better yet, follow the locals to the free hot springs at the edge of town. Just a short walk down the hill, you’ll find the Parco dei Mulini (Park of Mills), where medieval millers once used the thermal water’s flow to power grain mills.

Today, the ancient mills are romantic ruins, and natural stone pools have formed where you can soak for free while gazing up at the village. The water maintains a constant 52°C (125°F) at the source and cools to a perfect bathing temperature in the pools below. Nothing beats slipping into these waters at sunset, when the thermal mist creates an otherworldly atmosphere and stars begin appearing overhead.

The minerals in these waters – particularly calcium, magnesium, and sulfur – have been renowned for centuries for treating everything from skin conditions to joint pain. The locals swear that soaking here three days in a row will cure whatever ails you. Whether that’s true or not, the relaxation factor alone is worth the trip.

After your soak, wrap yourself in the twilight tranquility of Bagno Vignoni’s stone streets. With just 40 permanent residents, the village becomes magical after day-trippers leave. For dinner, head to Osteria del Leone for wild boar pappardelle and views of the illuminated thermal pool, or try La Bottega di Cacio for cheese plates featuring the region’s famous pecorino paired with local truffle honey.

Stay overnight at Albergo Le Terme, housed in a restored medieval building where rooms feature original wooden beams and views of either the thermal square or the Orcia Valley. The hotel’s own thermal pool is open to guests for night swimming under the stars – an experience that feels like floating in a medieval dream.

Morning in Bagno Vignoni offers another treat: watching steam rise from the thermal waters as the first light hits the pool, creating a mystical atmosphere that photographers dream about. Grab a fresh pastry from Il Forno (the village’s only bakery), find a quiet spot beside the pool, and savor one of Tuscany’s most peaceful moments.

D. Barga: Colorful Mountain Town with Scottish Connections

Perched on a hilltop in the dramatic Garfagnana region of northern Tuscany, Barga might be the most colorful town you’ve never heard of. This medieval gem stands guard over the Serchio Valley, surrounded by the jagged peaks of the Apuan Alps on one side and the rolling green Apennines on the other.

What makes Barga truly special is how it feels both quintessentially Italian and surprisingly Scottish at the same time. Yes, you read that right – Scottish.

The connection dates back to the late 19th century when many Barghigiani emigrated to Scotland, particularly to Glasgow, where they opened ice cream parlors and fish and chip shops. Rather than assimilating completely, these emigrants maintained strong ties with their hometown, creating a cultural bridge that still exists today.

Walk through Barga’s cobbled streets and you might hear Scottish accents mingling with Italian, or stumble upon the town’s annual fish and chip festival. Some locals even speak with a distinct Scottish-Italian accent that you won’t hear anywhere else in Italy. The town’s football club proudly flies both Italian and Scottish flags at matches.

This unique cultural blend reaches its peak during the Barga Scottish Week each September, when bagpipers parade through medieval streets, Scottish bands perform in Renaissance piazzas, and you can feast on haggis alongside Italian porchetta. It’s a cultural fusion that shouldn’t work but somehow creates something magical.

Beyond its Scottish connection, Barga’s historic center is a masterpiece of medieval urban planning. Cars can’t enter the ancient walls, so you’ll explore on foot, climbing steep stone staircases and ducking through arched passageways that open suddenly onto sun-drenched piazzas. The narrow streets wind upward like a stone labyrinth, eventually leading to the town’s crowning glory – the Duomo di San Cristoforo.

Standing on the highest point of town, this Romanesque cathedral dates back to the 11th century. Its simple stone façade hides a magnificent interior with a pulpit carved from rosso di Garfagnana marble. But the real treasure is the panoramic view from the cathedral terrace – an endless sea of terracotta rooftops giving way to chestnut forests, olive groves, and the dramatic mountain backdrop.

Barga has also become an unexpected hub for arts and music. The town hosts one of Italy’s most respected jazz festivals each August, with performances held in medieval piazzas where the acoustics are perfect. The Opera Barga Festival brings classical performances to unexpected venues throughout summer.

Giovanni Pascoli, one of Italy’s greatest poets, made his home here, drawn by the beauty of the landscape. His house, Casa Pascoli, is now a museum where you can see how the surrounding nature inspired his verses. The poet called the view from Barga “the most beautiful view in the world,” and it’s hard to disagree with him.

Food in Barga reflects its unique geography – mountain dishes with a touch of coastal influence. Try the local specialty, castagnaccio – a dense chestnut flour cake with rosemary, pine nuts, and olive oil. At Trattoria L’Altana, feast on garmugia, a spring soup that’s one of Tuscany’s oldest recipes, featuring artichokes, fava beans, peas, and pancetta.

For the best coffee in town (and the best gossip), join the locals at Caffe Capretz in Piazza Angelio. The owner, Paolo, might share stories about the time a young Paolo Nutini (the Scottish-Italian singer whose family came from Barga) performed spontaneously in the square before he was famous.

Stay at Renaissance Tuscany Il Ciocco Resort for luxury with mountain views, or for a more authentic experience, rent a room at Accommodation La Mausolea, a 16th-century stone house where each morning begins with homemade jam from fruits grown in the garden and bread baked in a wood-fired oven.

The truly unforgettable moment in Barga comes during the “Sagra del Fish and Chips” in August, where you’ll find yourself eating British food served by Italians speaking with Scottish accents, while a bagpiper plays alongside a traditional Tuscan folk band. It’s a cultural collision that perfectly represents this town’s unique place in Italy’s hidden corners.

Sicily’s Secret Coastlines and Villages

Sicily's Secret Coastlines and Villages

A. Cefalù: Arab-Norman Beauty Without the Crowds

Ever feel like you’ve stumbled onto a movie set when you’re traveling? That’s Cefalù for you. This coastal gem sits pretty on Sicily’s northern shore, about an hour’s drive east of Palermo. But unlike its famous neighbor, Cefalù hasn’t been overrun by tourists wielding selfie sticks.

The town is absolutely dripping with history. Its Arab-Norman cathedral dominates the skyline, a UNESCO World Heritage site that dates back to 1131. King Roger II commissioned this masterpiece, and boy, did he have good taste. The Byzantine mosaics inside will stop you in your tracks – the Christ Pantocrator with those intense eyes seems to follow you around the room.

But Cefalù isn’t just about its cathedral. The town is nestled beneath La Rocca, a massive limestone crag that looms 270 meters above sea level. Hike up there for views that’ll make your Instagram followers weep with envy. The climb takes about 45 minutes, and you’ll pass ancient megalithic walls and ruins of a Temple of Diana along the way. Worth every drop of sweat, I promise.

When you’re done with the climb, cool off at Cefalù’s crescent-shaped beach. The golden sand stretches for kilometers, with crystal-clear water that’s perfect for swimming. And the best part? Even in summer, you can find a spot without playing human Tetris.

Hungry after all that exploring? Duck into one of the trattorias in the medieval center. Order some pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines, wild fennel, pine nuts, and raisins) – it’s a Sicilian classic that perfectly captures the island’s Arab influences. Wash it down with a glass of local white wine, maybe a Grillo or Catarratto.

The locals hang out in Piazza del Duomo, sipping espresso and watching the world go by. Join them. Strike up a conversation. Sicilians are warm people who love sharing stories about their hometown.

Accommodation in Cefalù won’t break the bank either. Skip the big hotels and look for a family-run B&B in the old town. Many have terraces with sea views that big hotel chains would charge triple for.

Timing matters here. Visit in May or September to hit the sweet spot – warm enough to swim but without the August crowds when Italians take their vacations. The light during these months is magical too, casting a golden glow on the honey-colored stone buildings that photographers dream about.

B. Scopello: Crystal Waters and Ancient Tuna Factory

Just when you think Sicily can’t get any more beautiful, along comes Scopello to prove you wrong. This tiny hamlet on the northwestern coast feels like Sicily’s best-kept secret, though word is starting to get out.

The star attraction here is the tonnara – an ancient tuna fishing facility that dates back to the 13th century. It’s no longer operational (good news for the tuna), but these weathered stone buildings against the backdrop of dramatic sea stacks create a scene so picturesque it hurts. Game of Thrones location scouts missed a trick by not filming here.

The tonnara sits at the edge of a small cove with water so clear you can count pebbles at the bottom. Bring your snorkeling gear – the marine life here is abundant. Schools of fish dart around the rocks, and if you’re lucky, you might spot an octopus playing hide-and-seek in the crevices.

Scopello’s main village is tiny but charming, clustered around a central courtyard with a 500-year-old baglio (fortified farmhouse) at its heart. This stone courtyard now houses cafes and small shops. Grab a granita (Sicilian semi-frozen dessert) from the local bar and people-watch under the shade of ancient elm trees.

Just a stone’s throw away lies the Zingaro Nature Reserve, Sicily’s first protected area. This 7-kilometer stretch of coastline offers some of the most stunning hiking in Sicily. The main trail hugs the coast, dipping down to secret beaches accessible only by foot. Pack plenty of water and a picnic – once you find your perfect cove, you won’t want to leave.

The water in these hidden beaches has a color gradient that defies belief – from pale turquoise in the shallows to deep sapphire further out. No filter needed for your photos here. The real thing looks better than anything your phone could enhance.

Food-wise, Scopello punches above its weight. For a hamlet of its size, the dining options are surprisingly good. Look for restaurants serving busiate trapanesi – a local pasta shaped like corkscrews, often served with red pesto made from tomatoes, almonds, and local herbs. Pair it with a glass of Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most famous red wine.

Accommodation options are limited but charming. Most visitors stay in agriturismi (farm stays) in the surrounding countryside or rent apartments in the village. Book well ahead in summer – with only a handful of places to stay, they fill up fast.

The lack of mass tourism infrastructure is exactly what makes Scopello special. There are no big hotels, no souvenir shops selling plastic trinkets, just authentic Sicilian coastal life at its most enchanting.

Timing tip: The Zingaro Reserve can get brutally hot in July and August. If hiking is on your agenda, aim for May, June, or September. And remember, Scopello is tiny – you can see it in half a day, but why rush? Give yourself time to sink into the languid rhythm of Sicilian coastal life.

C. Marzamemi: Fishing Village with Photogenic Piazzas

If Instagram were a place, it might look like Marzamemi. This former fishing village in Sicily’s southeastern corner is criminally photogenic. We’re talking honey-colored stone buildings, turquoise shutters, and flowering bougainvillea spilling over ancient walls. But snap those photos quickly, because Marzamemi won’t stay under the radar much longer.

The village dates back to the Arab domination of Sicily in the 10th century. Its name comes from the Arabic “marsa al hamem,” meaning “bay of turtledoves.” The Arabs recognized a good thing when they saw it and established the village’s first tonnara (tuna processing facility).

The heart of Marzamemi is its Piazza Regina Margherita – a stone square so perfectly preserved it feels like time stopped here centuries ago. The buildings surrounding it housed the original tonnara operations. Today, they’re home to restaurants, bars, and boutiques selling local products.

Speaking of local products, Marzamemi is famous for its seafood preserves. The tradition of bottling tuna, swordfish, and other Mediterranean delicacies continues to this day. Visit one of the small producers to sample bottarga (cured fish roe), tuna in olive oil, or seafood pâtés that make perfect edible souvenirs.

Just off the main square sits the Chiesa di San Francesco di Paola, a small church built from the same golden stone as the rest of the village. It’s not grand or ornate – just perfectly proportioned and utterly charming.

For beach lovers, Marzamemi delivers with some of Sicily’s finest shores nearby. Porto Palo di Capo Passero beach stretches for over a kilometer with fine golden sand and shallow, child-friendly waters. A bit further south lies Isola delle Correnti, where the Ionian and Mediterranean Seas meet in a swirl of different-colored waters.

Come evening, Marzamemi transforms. The piazza fills with tables from the surrounding restaurants, strings of lights are switched on, and the whole village takes on a magical glow. This is aperitivo time – that wonderful Italian tradition of pre-dinner drinks and snacks. Order a Spritz or a glass of local Nero d’Avola wine and watch as the piazza comes alive with a mix of locals and in-the-know visitors.

The dining scene here punches well above its weight for a village this size. Seafood is the star, naturally. Try pasta with sea urchin for a true taste of Sicily’s maritime bounty, or order a mixed seafood crudo (raw platter) featuring whatever was caught that morning.

Marzamemi has another ace up its sleeve – it hosts an international film festival each summer. For one week in July, the entire village becomes an open-air cinema, with films projected onto the walls of the ancient buildings. Directors and film buffs from around the world descend on this tiny village, creating a buzzing atmosphere that’s hard to beat.

Accommodation is mostly in the form of vacation rentals – restored fishermen’s houses or apartments in the village center. Stay within walking distance of the piazza if you can, so you can stroll home after those long, wine-filled dinners without worrying about driving.

Visit in June or September to avoid the August crowds but still enjoy swimming weather. And don’t rush – Marzamemi rewards those who slow down and appreciate its simple charms.

D. Ortigia: Syracuse’s Historic Island Core

Think of Ortigia as Sicily’s ultimate small package with enormous value. This tiny island – barely one kilometer long and 600 meters wide – packs in more history, beauty, and atmosphere than places ten times its size.

Connected to mainland Syracuse by two short bridges, Ortigia is technically an island, but it feels more like the densely concentrated heart of a much larger city. Which, historically speaking, it is. Syracuse was once the most powerful Greek city in the Mediterranean, rivaling even Athens, and Ortigia was its beating heart.

Start your exploration at Piazza Duomo, one of Italy’s most beautiful squares. The cathedral dominating one side began life as a Greek temple to Athena in the 5th century BC. The ancient Doric columns are still visible, incorporated into the walls of the current Baroque structure. It’s a perfect metaphor for Sicily itself – layer upon layer of civilizations, each leaving their mark.

Wander down to the Fonte Aretusa, a freshwater spring that flows right next to the sea. Greek mythology tells us this spring was created when the nymph Arethusa, fleeing from unwanted attention, was transformed into water. The spring is ringed with papyrus plants – the only place in Europe where papyrus grows naturally.

Ortigia’s streets are a labyrinth of narrow medieval lanes that occasionally open into surprising piazzas. Getting lost here isn’t just inevitable – it’s recommended. Turn a corner and you might find yourself facing a Baroque palace, a tiny family-run trattoria, or a workshop where an artisan crafts puppets for Sicily’s traditional puppet theater.

The island’s Jewish history is fascinating too. Until their expulsion in 1492, Ortigia had a thriving Jewish community. The Giudecca district still bears witness to this heritage, and recent archaeological discoveries have uncovered what might be Europe’s oldest mikveh (ritual bath) beneath a hotel.

The market on Ortigia deserves special mention. Located near the bridges connecting to mainland Syracuse, this daily affair is a feast for all senses. Local farmers sell produce so fresh it was probably harvested that morning. Fishmongers display their catch on beds of ice, calling out to passersby with practiced sales pitches. The street food stalls serve arancini (fried rice balls) and scacce (Sicilian folded flatbreads) that make for perfect portable lunches.

As evening falls, Ortigia transforms. The honey-colored Baroque buildings glow in the sunset light, and locals emerge for the traditional passeggiata (evening stroll). Join them as they parade along the seafront promenade, stopping to chat with friends or pause for an aperitivo at one of the many cafes and bars.

Dining options on Ortigia range from simple trattorias serving grandma’s recipes to innovative restaurants reimagining Sicilian classics. Look for pasta con le sarde (with sardines and wild fennel) or pasta alla Norma (with eggplant and ricotta salata). Sea urchin pasta is another local specialty worth trying if you’re feeling adventurous.

Accommodation on Ortigia tends toward boutique hotels in converted palazzos or apartment rentals in centuries-old buildings. Many have rooftop terraces offering views over the jumble of terracotta roofs to the sea beyond.

Ortigia gets busy in peak summer, but visit in May or October and you’ll have a more authentic experience. Winter has its own charm too – with fewer tourists, you can really appreciate the island’s architecture and history without the crowds.

While technically part of Syracuse, Ortigia feels like its own self-contained world – one where 2,700 years of history coexist with vibrant modern Sicilian life. It’s the kind of place where you might come for a day but end up staying a week.

E. Favignana: Turquoise Waters on the Egadi Islands

Fancy swimming in water so clear and blue it looks Photoshopped? Welcome to Favignana, the largest of Sicily’s Egadi Islands, floating just off the western coast. This butterfly-shaped island (locals say it resembles a farfalla) offers the kind of Mediterranean beauty that makes you question why you’d ever vacation anywhere else.

Favignana sits a quick 30-minute hydrofoil ride from Trapani, yet it feels worlds away from mainland Sicily. The pace here is deliberately slow – exactly as island life should be. Many visitors rent bicycles or scooters to explore, as the island is just 9 kilometers across at its widest point.

Let’s talk about those beaches. Unlike much of rocky Sicily, Favignana offers both sandy shores and dramatic rock formations. Cala Rossa isn’t actually a beach but a series of flat rock platforms leading into the most intensely turquoise water you’ve ever seen. Despite the name (which means “Red Cove,” after a bloody Punic War battle fought here), the only red you’ll see is your sunburned skin if you forget sunscreen.

Cala Azzurra lives up to its name (“Blue Cove”) with shallow, warm waters perfect for families with small children. Lido Burrone offers a more traditional sandy beach experience, with facilities like sun loungers and beachside bars if you prefer your nature with a side of comfort.

Beyond beaches, Favignana has a fascinating industrial history. The island was once the center of Sicily’s tuna fishing industry, with massive tonnare (tuna processing facilities) operating until the late 20th century. The Florio family, industrial magnates who bought the island in the 1870s, transformed Favignana’s economy with their tuna canning operation.

Today, the Ex Stabilimento Florio has been beautifully restored as a museum where you can learn about the mattanza – the traditional (and admittedly brutal) tuna harvest that was once the island’s economic lifeblood. The building itself is architectural eye candy, with soaring stone arches and iron columns imported from England during the Industrial Revolution.

The island’s limestone geology has created another unique attraction – the cave-like quarries where stone was extracted for centuries. Some of these quarries, like Cavallo and Fanfaro, have been repurposed as otherworldly gardens where citrus trees and vines grow in the sheltered microclimates.

Favignana’s main town, also called Favignana, curves around a small harbor where fishing boats bob alongside luxury yachts. The central Piazza Madrice comes alive in the evenings, when locals gather for the traditional passeggiata. Join them for an aperitivo at one of the cafes lining the square, then follow their lead to find the best restaurants.

Speaking of food, Favignana’s cuisine is predictably heavy on seafood. Tuna appears in many forms – raw in tartare, grilled as steaks, or preserved in oil. Look for pasta with bottarga (cured tuna roe), a local specialty with intense umami flavor. The couscous served here reflects nearby North Africa’s influence, often topped with fish and seafood in a light broth.

Accommodations range from simple pensiones to luxury villas. For something unique, look into staying in a dammuso – a traditional stone dwelling with thick walls that keep interiors cool even in the heat of summer.

While Favignana is the most popular of the Egadi Islands, don’t miss the opportunity to visit its siblings if time allows. Levanzo is even smaller and more rustic, with prehistoric cave paintings at Grotta del Genovese. Marettimo is the most remote, offering spectacular hiking trails and an authentic glimpse of Mediterranean island life largely unchanged by tourism.

The best time to visit is June or September when the water is warm enough for swimming but the island isn’t overrun with Italian holidaymakers. In August, the population swells dramatically as mainland Italians descend for their sacred summer vacations.

Getting around Favignana is easy even without a car. Bicycle rental shops are plentiful, and the relatively flat terrain makes for pleasant cycling. Electric bikes are available if you want a little assistance with the few hills.

With no major development, limited traffic, and protected status as part of a marine reserve, Favignana offers a vision of Mediterranean life that’s increasingly rare. It’s the kind of place where time stretches like warm honey and one day melts seamlessly into the next.

Northern Italian Treasures

Northern Italian Treasures

Bergamo: Medieval Citadel with Alpine Views

Tucked away just 25 miles northeast of Milan sits Bergamo, a city that most tourists zip past on their way to Lake Como. Big mistake. Huge.

I stumbled upon Bergamo four years ago when a train strike left me stranded outside Milan. What started as travel frustration turned into one of my favorite Italian discoveries.

The city is split into two distinct worlds: Città Alta (Upper Town) and Città Bassa (Lower Town). And trust me, you want to head straight up.

Città Alta sits perched on a hillside, completely encircled by 16th-century Venetian walls that stretch for over 3 miles. These massive stone fortifications aren’t just pretty to look at—they’re a UNESCO World Heritage site and offer some of the most spectacular sunset walks you’ll find anywhere in Italy.

Getting up there is half the fun. Skip the bus and take the funicular railway that’s been connecting the two parts of town since 1887. The creaking wooden cars slowly climb the hillside, revealing breathtaking views with each foot of elevation gained.

Once you reach the top, you’ll step into what feels like a perfectly preserved medieval town. The heart of Città Alta is Piazza Vecchia, a square so perfectly proportioned that famed architect Le Corbusier called it “the most beautiful square in Europe.” He wasn’t exaggerating.

The square is anchored by the Palazzo della Ragione, a 12th-century palace with an open-air loggia on its ground floor. Nearby stands the Campanone (Civic Tower)—climb its 230 steps if you’re feeling energetic. The reward? A panoramic view stretching all the way to the Alps on clear days.

Just behind Piazza Vecchia lies another gem: Piazza Duomo, home to an architectural odd couple. The ornate Baroque Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica stands practically shoulder-to-shoulder with the stark, white Cappella Colleoni. Inside Santa Maria Maggiore, look up at the ceiling covered in frescoes, then look down at the inlaid wooden panels depicting biblical scenes on the choir stalls.

The Colleoni Chapel might be small, but it packs a visual punch with its pink and white marble façade. Built as a mausoleum for the mercenary captain Bartolomeo Colleoni, it houses his tomb supported by carved lions. The locals will tell you that touching the Colleoni family crest (three testicles—yes, really) brings good luck. Judge that tradition as you will.

Hungry after all that sightseeing? Bergamo’s cuisine is hearty mountain food that will have you forgetting all about pizza and pasta. Try casoncelli—pasta stuffed with meat, amaretto cookies, raisins, and garlic, then topped with bacon and sage butter. It sounds weird. It tastes incredible.

For the best casoncelli in town, head to Trattoria Da Giuliana, a family-run spot where nonna still makes the pasta by hand each morning. Skip the touristy places on the main square and follow the locals here instead.

Bergamo also has a sweet side: try the polenta e osei, a dessert that looks like a little bird (osei) sitting on polenta but is actually sponge cake and chocolate. Get yours at Pasticceria Cavour, where they’ve been making them the same way since 1888.

The best part about Bergamo? After day-trippers from Milan head back in the late afternoon, you’ll have those cobblestone streets almost to yourself. Stay overnight in one of the converted palazzos like GombitHotel—a 13th-century tower transformed into a sleek boutique hotel—and experience the magic of Città Alta under moonlight.

Morning brings another joy: watching Alpine light spill over the red-tiled roofs while sipping an espresso at Caffè del Tasso, a coffee house that’s been serving since 1476. On clear days, the snow-capped Alps form a jagged horizon that seems close enough to touch.

Want to escape the (modest) crowds altogether? Take the second funicular from Città Alta up to San Vigilio, where an ancient castle offers even more spectacular views. You might be the only visitor there, sharing the panorama with just a few local couples and the occasional cat sunning itself on centuries-old stone.

Bergamo isn’t flashy. It doesn’t have a leaning tower or a colosseum. What it offers instead is an authentic slice of northern Italian life, with a medieval center that feels genuinely lived-in rather than preserved for tourists. It’s the Italy you dreamed about before Instagram influencers told you where to go.

Trieste: Coffee Culture with Habsburg Grandeur

The joke among Italians is that Trieste isn’t really Italy at all. Sitting at the very northeastern edge of the country, pressed up against Slovenia, this port city has changed hands so many times that it’s developed an identity crisis in the best possible way.

For over 500 years, Trieste belonged to the Habsburg Empire, serving as Austria’s crucial port and trading hub. The result? A city that looks more like Vienna than Venice, where Italian passion meets Central European precision, and where the coffee culture goes beyond anything you’ve experienced elsewhere in Italy.

Let’s start with that coffee. Trieste consumes more coffee per capita than anywhere else in Italy—which is saying something in a country that treats espresso like a religion. The coffee beans arrive at Trieste’s port and have been the backbone of the city’s economy for centuries. This isn’t just a place that drinks coffee; it’s a place that lives and breathes it.

Step into the historic Caffè San Marco, and you’ll think you’ve wandered into a Viennese coffee house rather than an Italian café. Founded in 1914, its Art Nouveau interior features wooden paneling, marble tables, and ornate light fixtures that have witnessed a century of intellectual discussions. Writers James Joyce and Italo Svevo were regulars here—Joyce even taught English in Trieste for over a decade.

When ordering coffee in Trieste, forget everything you know about Italian coffee terminology. Here, a “caffè” isn’t an espresso but a coffee with a little hot cream. Want an espresso? Ask for a “nero.” And if you want to blend in completely, order a “capo in b”—a small cappuccino served in a glass, not a cup. The locals will nod approvingly.

After getting your caffeine fix, stroll down to Piazza Unità d’Italia, reportedly the largest seaside square in Europe. Bordered on three sides by Habsburg-era buildings and open to the Adriatic on the fourth, it’s a breathtaking space that changes character throughout the day. In the morning, light bounces off the water onto the white stone facades. At sunset, the buildings glow amber and pink. And at night, the illuminated palace fronts create a theatrical backdrop for evening passeggiata.

Unlike the crowded squares of Venice or Rome, here you can actually find a seat at one of the historic cafés like Caffè degli Specchi and watch the world go by without being charged an arm and a leg. The waiters, dressed in formal black and white, bring your drink on a silver tray with a small glass of water—a Habsburg tradition that persists.

Nearby, the Canal Grande cuts into the city center, lined with colorful buildings and crossed by the Ponte Rosso (Red Bridge). It’s nothing like Venice’s grand canals—just a small waterway where fishing boats dock—but it gives a hint of Trieste’s maritime character. At the head of the canal stands the Serbian Orthodox Church of San Spiridione, its blue domes and Byzantine design a reminder of the city’s multicultural past.

Speaking of cultural diversity, Trieste’s religious buildings tell the story of its tolerant history. Within a few blocks, you’ll find Catholic churches, Orthodox churches, a synagogue, and Protestant places of worship. The Grand Synagogue of Trieste is one of the largest in Europe, reflecting the important Jewish community that flourished here when Jews faced restrictions elsewhere.

For a deep dive into the city’s complex identity, visit the Museo di Storia ed Arte and the Museo Revoltella. The first covers the archaeological history of the region, while the latter, housed in the former residence of Baron Pasquale Revoltella, displays 19th-century art and furnishings that show the taste of Trieste’s wealthy merchant class during the Habsburg era.

Hungry yet? Trieste’s cuisine defies simple categorization. At Buffet da Pepi, a century-old institution, you can try pork dishes that would be more at home in Austria or Slovenia. Their boiled pork platter, served with sauerkraut, mustard, and fresh horseradish, pairs perfectly with local white wine from the Carso region.

For seafood with a view, head to Pier The Roof, where the restaurant’s terrace overlooks the Gulf of Trieste. Try the sardoni impanati (breaded sardines) or the boreto alla triestina, a fish stew that showcases the Adriatic’s bounty.

Dessert means jota, a heavy bean and sauerkraut soup that will warm you on Trieste’s blustery days, or strukli, a type of strudel filled with cottage cheese. And of course, wash it all down with a local wine—the orange wines from nearby Friuli are gaining worldwide recognition.

As evening falls, join the locals for a passeggiata along the Molo Audace, a stone pier extending 246 meters into the Adriatic. From here, the view back toward the illuminated Piazza Unità d’Italia is nothing short of magical. If you time it right and visit during a full moon, you’ll understand why poets and writers have been drawn to Trieste for centuries.

Just outside the city center, Miramare Castle rises from a rocky promontory, its white stone walls and towers contrasting dramatically with the blue Adriatic. Built in the 1850s for Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, the castle and its botanical gardens make for a perfect half-day excursion. Inside, the rooms remain furnished as they were in the 19th century, offering a glimpse into royal Habsburg life.

What makes Trieste special isn’t any single attraction but its atmosphere—a melancholy beauty that inspired writers from Rilke to Hemingway. It’s a city comfortable with its complex identity, where Italian, Austrian, Slovenian, and Jewish influences create something entirely unique.

The best time to visit? October through May, when the famous bora wind might be blowing (sometimes at over 100 mph), but the summer tourists are gone. Bundle up, duck into a coffee house when the wind gets too fierce, and experience the authentic Trieste that locals treasure.

Trento: Renaissance Splendor in the Dolomites

If someone blindfolded you and dropped you in Trento’s Piazza Duomo, you might think you’d landed in a secret corner of Tuscany rather than a mountain city in the Italian Alps. That’s the first surprise Trento delivers—Renaissance elegance surrounded by soaring Dolomite peaks.

Most travelers race through Trentino on their way to the Dolomites or Lake Garda, never realizing they’re bypassing one of northern Italy’s most sophisticated small cities. Their loss is your gain.

Trento wears its dual identity proudly. For centuries it was a Prince-Bishopric, ruled by bishop-princes who answered to the Holy Roman Emperor. This unusual status gave the city autonomy and wealth, which its rulers poured into creating a miniature Renaissance capital high in the mountains.

The result? Frescoed palaces, elegant squares, and a cathedral complex that would look right at home in Florence—all set against a backdrop of 10,000-foot peaks.

Start in Piazza Duomo, where the magnificent Cathedral of San Vigilio dominates the scene. Built in the 12th century but given a Renaissance makeover in the 1500s, it’s famous as the setting for the Council of Trent—a 16-year meeting that shaped the Catholic Counter-Reformation. The religious politics might not interest you, but the architecture certainly will.

The square itself is pure Italian perfection. The 16th-century Fountain of Neptune splashes at its center, surrounded by frescoed buildings including the Casa Cazuffi-Rella with its mythological scenes painted in vibrant colors. Cafés spill onto the cobblestones, and unlike similar squares further south, you won’t find yourself fighting for table space with hordes of tourists.

Just off the main square stands the Castello del Buonconsiglio, once home to those powerful prince-bishops. This massive complex grew over centuries, with each ruler adding his own wing or tower. The result is a fascinating architectural timeline spanning from medieval to Renaissance styles.

Inside, the castle houses the Provincial Museum of Art, but the real highlight is the Eagle Tower with its “Cycle of the Months”—a series of frescoes depicting medieval life throughout the year. These 14th-century paintings show aristocrats hunting and feasting while peasants toil in the fields, offering a rare glimpse into daily life before photography.

The detail is extraordinary—you can see which crops were planted, how people dressed for different seasons, even the games children played. It’s like a medieval Instagram feed frozen in time.

Trento’s compact historic center makes it perfect for wandering. Via Belenzani cuts through the heart of town, lined with Renaissance palaces whose facades are decorated with frescoes showing trompe l’oeil columns, false windows, and mythological scenes. It’s outdoor art on a grand scale, yet few visitors even know it exists.

Duck into the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, with its distinctive pink and white marble exterior. This 16th-century church was the main meeting place during the Council of Trent, and its elegant interior showcases the Renaissance love of proportion and harmony.

Ready for a break? Head to Portela, a neighborhood filled with wine bars and restaurants. Try a glass of Trentodoc, the local sparkling wine made using the same method as Champagne but often at higher elevations. The mountain terroir gives these bubbles a distinctive crisp character that rivals their more famous French cousins—at half the price.

For food, Trentino offers a fascinating culinary fusion where Italian techniques meet Alpine ingredients. At Locanda Margon, traditional dishes get modern interpretations—try their canederli (bread dumplings) with mountain cheese, or strangolapreti (“priest stranglers”), spinach gnocchi with brown butter and sage.

For something more casual, join locals at Birreria Pedavena for craft beer and a plate of carne salada—thin slices of cured beef served with beans or grilled and topped with arugula and Trentino’s distinctive sweet-sour vinegar.

When you’ve had your fill of Renaissance splendor, Trento offers another dimension: science and innovation. The striking MUSE Science Museum, designed by starchitect Renzo Piano, rises like a stylized mountain range at the edge of town. Inside, interactive exhibits explore Alpine ecology, sustainability, and human evolution. It’s sophisticated enough for adults but engaging enough for kids—the perfect refuge on a rainy day.

Just outside town, the mountains beckon. Take the cable car from the city center up to Sardagna for breathtaking views over Trento and the Adige Valley. From this vantage point, you can see how the city nestles in a bowl surrounded by mountains and vineyards.

For a deeper dive into Alpine culture, visit the Museo degli Usi e Costumi della Gente Trentina in nearby San Michele all’Adige. This ethnographic museum showcases traditional farming tools, folk costumes, and reconstructed workshops that tell the story of mountain life before tourism transformed the region.

Wine lovers shouldn’t miss a tasting at one of the area’s mountain wineries. Cantina Ferrari, founded in 1902, pioneered the traditional method sparkling wines that now define the region. Their historic cellars offer tours that explain how altitude affects wine production.

If you’re visiting in December, Trento hosts one of northern Italy’s most atmospheric Christmas markets. The German-influenced holiday tradition transforms Piazza Fiera into a wonderland of wooden stalls selling handcrafted gifts, mulled wine, and Alpine specialties. Unlike the more famous markets in Bolzano or Merano, Trento’s version maintains an authentic local character.

The best way to experience Trento? Stay at least two nights. Use one day to explore the Renaissance city center and another for a mountain excursion. The Villa Madruzzo, a converted 16th-century villa just outside town, makes an ideal base with its gardens and views.

What makes Trento special is precisely what keeps it off most tourist itineraries—it doesn’t have a single must-see attraction. Instead, it offers a harmonious whole: Renaissance beauty, mountain scenery, excellent food and wine, and a cultural sophistication that belies its small size.

Visit in spring when the apple orchards bloom in the surrounding valleys, or in early fall when the vine-covered hillsides turn gold and crimson. Just don’t tell too many people about it—some secrets are worth keeping.

Puglia Beyond the Tourist Hotspots

Puglia Beyond the Tourist Hotspots

A. Locorotondo: White-washed Perfection in Valle d’Itria

Drive through the rolling hills of Puglia’s Valle d’Itria and suddenly, perched atop one of those hills, you’ll spot what looks like a gleaming white crown: Locorotondo.

The name literally means “round place,” and that’s your first clue about this town’s unique charm. The historic center forms an almost perfect circle, with narrow streets spiraling toward the center like a nautilus shell. But what strikes you immediately is the blinding whiteness. Every building, every wall, every corner seems freshly painted in brilliant white, creating a dazzling contrast against Puglia’s blue skies.

Most travelers zip through the Valle d’Itria, hitting Alberobello to see the famous trulli houses, then rushing off to coastal destinations. Their loss. Locorotondo offers something increasingly rare in Italy—authenticity without the crowds.

Walking through the old town feels like stepping into a photographer’s dream. Narrow alleyways barely wide enough for two people to pass lead to unexpected little piazzas. Everywhere you look, locals have transformed their tiny balconies into explosion of color with geraniums, petunias, and bougainvillea cascading down white walls.

The architecture here has its own distinct style. Beyond the typical Puglian whitewashed buildings, you’ll notice the “cummerse”—unique rectangular houses with pitched roofs covered in limestone slabs. These aren’t found anywhere else in Puglia and give Locorotondo its distinctive skyline.

What makes this town special isn’t any single landmark or must-see attraction—it’s the overall atmosphere. An elderly woman might invite you to see her traditional lace-making. The local baker might offer you a taste of freshly made taralli (ring-shaped crackers) flavored with fennel seeds. The pace is slow, deliberate, human.

Stop at Bar Impero in the main piazza for a caffè and watch town life unfold. Old men gather to play cards and debate local politics while housewives shop for the day’s produce at tiny family-run stores. Nobody’s in a hurry here.

Food-wise, Locorotondo punches above its weight. Try U’Curdunn, a tiny restaurant where Mamma Angela serves traditional dishes like orecchiette con cime di rapa (ear-shaped pasta with turnip tops) and lamb roasted with wild herbs from the surrounding countryside. The local white wine, also called Locorotondo DOC, is crisp, light, and perfectly complements the region’s seafood.

Just outside town, the countryside offers its own pleasures. Rent a bike and pedal past ancient olive groves, vineyards, and fields bordered by the region’s characteristic dry-stone walls. You’ll pass scattered trulli houses with their conical roofs, looking like something from a fairy tale.

Time your visit for July when the town hosts the Locus Festival, bringing international jazz and contemporary music acts to this tiny community. Watching world-class musicians perform in the town’s intimate piazza, with stars overhead and white buildings glowing in the stage lights, creates magical moments you simply can’t experience in Rome or Florence.

Locorotondo doesn’t overwhelm you with must-see sites or bucket-list experiences. Instead, it offers something more valuable—a glimpse of authentic Italian life, unchanged for generations, wrapped in a package of architectural perfection. And that’s exactly why the locals want to keep it to themselves.

B. Martina Franca: Baroque Elegance and Summer Opera

Just a short drive from Locorotondo but worlds apart in style sits Martina Franca, a small city with outsized cultural ambitions. Where Locorotondo dazzles with minimalist white, Martina Franca seduces with elaborate Baroque extravagance.

The town’s name has nothing to do with any “Martina” but comes from its history—”franca” refers to the tax exemptions granted to settlers in the 14th century. Those tax breaks attracted wealthy families who later competed to build the most impressive palaces and churches, giving us the architectural treasure we see today.

Enter through the ornate Porto Santo Stefano gateway, and you’re immediately transported to a world of aristocratic splendor. The historic center unfolds like an open-air museum of Baroque architecture—all honey-colored limestone façades, ornate balconies supported by mythological figures, and doorways framed by intricate carvings of flowers, fruits, and fantastical creatures.

Palazzo Ducale dominates the main square. Once home to the dukes of Caracciolo, it now houses the municipal offices and hosts exhibitions. The building’s façade might seem relatively restrained, but step inside to discover richly frescoed ceilings and a grand courtyard where, on summer evenings, locals gather for cultural events.

Across the piazza stands the Basilica di San Martino, a masterpiece of Baroque religious architecture. Its elaborate façade gives just a hint of the riches inside—marble altars, paintings by Domenico Carella (a local artist who decorated many of the town’s churches), and a magnificent pipe organ that roars to life during Sunday Mass.

Unlike many historic Italian towns that empty after dark, Martina Franca pulses with energy well into the night. The evening passeggiata (stroll) here isn’t just a brief walk—it’s a major social event. Families, couples, and groups of friends parade along the main streets, stopping to chat, showing off their fashion sense, and eventually settling at one of the outdoor cafés that line Piazza XX Settembre.

What truly sets Martina Franca apart, though, is its cultural scene. For a town of just 50,000 residents, its commitment to the arts—particularly opera—is remarkable. Every summer since 1975, the Festival della Valle d’Itria transforms this small town into an international destination for opera aficionados.

The festival specializes in rarely performed works and new productions. Imagine hearing a forgotten 18th-century masterpiece performed in the courtyard of Palazzo Ducale, stars overhead, surrounded by Baroque splendor. Opera singers from around the world consider it an honor to perform here, creating a level of musical excellence you’d expect in Milan or Vienna, not a small Puglian town.

Even if you’re not an opera fan, timing your visit during the festival (typically late July to early August) adds a special energy to your experience. The town buzzes with anticipation, restaurants stay open later, and you might find yourself having an aperitivo next to world-famous sopranos and conductors.

The food scene deserves special mention. Martina Franca is famous for its capocollo—a delicate cured meat made from pork neck, seasoned with herbs and spices. Local restaurants like I Templari serve it thinly sliced as part of antipasti plates. Follow it with the regional specialty, purè di fave con cicoria (fava bean purée with wild chicory)—a humble dish that perfectly balances earthy and bitter flavors.

For dessert, seek out pasticciotto martinese—a pastry filled with custard cream and black cherries—at Caffè Tripoli, a historic pastry shop where the recipe hasn’t changed in generations.

The surrounding countryside offers its own pleasures. The town sits at the edge of the Valle d’Itria, with its distinctive landscape of trulli houses, ancient olive groves, and vineyards. A short drive takes you to masserias (fortified farmhouses) that have been converted into agriturismi where you can sample organic produce grown on-site.

Martina Franca remains largely overlooked by international tourists rushing between better-known destinations. That’s precisely what makes it special—a place where you can experience world-class culture and Baroque splendor without fighting through crowds. The locals wouldn’t have it any other way.

C. Otranto: Fortress Town with Byzantine Mosaics

The easternmost point of Italy’s boot heel, Otranto has always faced east—toward the Balkans, Greece, and beyond. Just 45 miles across the Strait of Otranto from Albania, this town has served as Italy’s gateway to the East for millennia. This unique position has shaped everything about Otranto, from its history and architecture to its cuisine and culture.

Approaching from the coastal road, your first glimpse of Otranto takes your breath away. The compact old town sits protected by massive limestone walls, rising directly from the sea. The fortress looks exactly as it should—battle-scarred, imposing, unyielding—a reminder of centuries spent fending off invaders.

This isn’t just atmospheric scenery. In 1480, Otranto endured one of the most tragic episodes in Italian history when Ottoman forces besieged and captured the town. When 800 citizens refused to convert to Islam, they were executed on the Hill of Minerva. Today, their remains are displayed in the Cathedral’s Chapel of the Martyrs—a sobering reminder of the town’s turbulent past.

The Aragonese Castle that dominates the seafront dates from this period. Walking its massive walls offers spectacular views across the harbor and the impossibly blue Adriatic Sea. The castle now hosts cultural exhibitions and concerts during summer months, its courtyard transformed from a space of military might to one of artistic expression.

But Otranto’s crowning glory lies hidden inside its 11th-century cathedral. Covering the entire floor stretches one of Italy’s most remarkable and least-known artistic treasures—a massive mosaic created by a monk named Pantaleone in 1163-1165.

This isn’t just any mosaic. Covering nearly 16,000 square feet, it depicts a bizarre “Tree of Life” rising from two elephants, surrounded by scenes from the Old Testament, King Arthur’s legends, and medieval bestiaries showing fantastical creatures. Part religious instruction, part medieval encyclopedia, it offers a window into the medieval mind unlike anything else in Italy.

Stand in the center of this cathedral, surrounded by Norman architecture, Byzantine art, and remains of martyrs from an Ottoman invasion, and you physically experience Otranto’s position at the crossroads of civilizations.

Outside the cathedral, the old town is a warren of narrow streets paved with limestone worn smooth by centuries of footsteps. Unlike many historic centers that have been gentrified beyond recognition, Otranto maintains a lived-in feel. Laundry still hangs from windows, children play in tiny piazzas, and neighbors call to each other across alleyways barely wide enough for a Vespa.

The seafront promenade comes alive at sunset. Join locals for the passeggiata, stopping for an aperitivo at one of the bars overlooking the harbor. The fishing boats returning with the day’s catch hint at what will appear on restaurant menus that evening.

Otranto’s cuisine reflects its position between land and sea. At restaurants like L’Altro Baffo, you’ll find dishes like spaghetti with sea urchin—intense, briny, and tasting purely of the Adriatic—alongside orecchiette with turnip tops, a Puglian staple. The local specialty is pezzetti di cavallo, horse meat slow-cooked in tomato sauce—a reminder of the region’s historical poverty, when nothing could be wasted.

Beyond the town itself, Otranto offers some of Puglia’s most spectacular coastline. The road south toward Santa Maria di Leuca winds along dramatic limestone cliffs, with the sea changing from turquoise to sapphire blue as it deepens offshore.

Just north of town lies the Baia dei Turchi (Bay of the Turks), named for being the landing site of the Ottoman invasion. Today, it’s one of Italy’s most beautiful beaches—a crescent of white sand backed by pine forest, with water so clear you can count pebbles on the seafloor twenty feet down.

Inland, the countryside is dotted with megalithic structures called “dolmen” and “menhir”—standing stones erected by mysterious prehistoric peoples long before Romans arrived. The most impressive, Dolmen di Placa, consists of massive stone slabs creating a burial chamber that has stood for over 4,000 years.

Summer brings the town’s population to five times its winter size, as Italians (primarily from the north) flock to their favorite vacation spot. Yet international tourists remain relatively few, perhaps because Otranto requires effort to reach—no major airports or train lines serve it directly.

That relative isolation has preserved Otranto’s character. While other coastal towns have surrendered completely to tourism, Otranto maintains its working harbor, its local crafts (particularly ceramics painted in distinctive Byzantine-influenced styles), and its unhurried pace of life.

Visit in May or September to experience perfect weather, warm sea, and minimal crowds. At sunset, climb the cathedral bell tower and watch the Adriatic turn golden. Look east and realize the next land mass is Albania, then Greece. In that moment, you’ll understand why this town has always been a frontier—not just of Italy, but of cultures, religions, and worlds.

D. Gargano Peninsula: Forest Meets Sea in Italy’s Spur

If you look at a map of Italy, the Gargano Peninsula is impossible to miss—it’s the distinctive spur that juts out from the boot’s heel into the Adriatic Sea. Yet somehow, this wild promontory remains one of Italy’s best-kept secrets, overlooked by international travelers rushing between more famous destinations.

The Gargano exists in splendid isolation, separated from the rest of Puglia by the Tavoliere delle Puglie plain. This geographical separation has preserved not just its natural environment but also its distinct culture, dialects, and traditions. Coming here feels like discovering an island attached to the mainland by the thinnest of threads.

What makes the Gargano truly special is its dramatic diversity packed into a relatively small area. Ancient forests tumble down to meet crystalline seas. Medieval towns perch on limestone cliffs hundreds of feet above crashing waves. Religious pilgrimages dating back centuries still take place along ancient paths. And some of Italy’s most spectacular beaches remain refreshingly uncrowded, even in mid-summer.

The heart of the peninsula is dominated by the Foresta Umbra (Shadow Forest), the remains of an ancient woodland that once covered much of Europe. Walking under the canopy of towering beech trees, some over 300 years old, you’re enveloped in a green cathedral of filtered light and profound silence. The forest harbors Italy’s most diverse ecosystem—wildcats, roe deer, and over 170 bird species make their home here, while thousands of plant species carpet the forest floor.

The forest’s microclimate creates unexpected scenes—like finding yourself surrounded by ferns and mushrooms that seem transported from Northern Europe, then emerging to Mediterranean macchia vegetation just a mile away. Hiking trails crisscross the protected area, ranging from easy walks to challenging day-long treks. The best include the Cutino d’Umbra path, which leads to a natural spring where wildlife gathers at dawn and dusk.

The coastline provides an equally dramatic counterpoint to the forest. Over millennia, the sea has sculpted the white limestone into fantastical formations—arches, stacks, and grottos accessible only by boat. A coastal boat tour from Vieste reveals these natural sculptures, along with hidden beaches tucked between towering cliffs.

Speaking of beaches, the Gargano boasts some of Italy’s finest. Unlike the crowded, regimented lidos of the Adriatic Riviera further north, here you’ll find pristine stretches of sand and pebble beaches with crystal-clear water in every shade of blue. Baia delle Zagare, with its twin limestone stacks rising from the sea, and the long golden stretch of Vignanotica stand among Italy’s most beautiful coastal spots.

The peninsula is dotted with whitewashed towns that seem to have more in common with Greek islands than mainland Italy. Vieste, the region’s main tourist center, spills down a rocky promontory, its medieval center a maze of stepped alleys and tiny piazzas. The town beach, Pizzomunno, is named for the massive limestone monolith that stands sentinel at its edge—a natural sculpture 25 meters tall that local legend claims was once a young man turned to stone for his forbidden love of a mermaid.

Further along the coast, Peschici offers another variation on the whitewashed theme, its houses clustered together for protection against historical pirate raids. Below the town, traditional wooden fishing platforms called trabucchi extend into the sea—ingenious structures where fishermen lower giant nets using a system of weights and pulleys that hasn’t changed in centuries. Some trabucchi now function as unique restaurants where you’ll eat seafood caught hours or even minutes before it reaches your plate.

Inland, Monte Sant’Angelo provides yet another face of the Gargano. This hilltop town centers around the Sanctuary of San Michele Arcangelo, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of Christendom’s most important medieval pilgrimage destinations. Built around a grotto where the Archangel Michael supposedly appeared in the 5th century, the sanctuary attracts pilgrims from across Europe. Descend the worn stone staircase into the atmospheric cave church, its walls covered with inscriptions left by visitors over the centuries, and you connect directly with medieval faith.

The Gargano’s isolated position has preserved culinary traditions lost elsewhere. At rustic trattorias like La Taverna del Lupo in Monte Sant’Angelo, you’ll find pasta shapes and preparation methods unique to specific towns—like troccoli, a square-edged spaghetti traditionally cut by hand, often served with wild mushrooms from the Foresta Umbra. The peninsula’s signature cheese is caciocavallo podolico, made from the milk of a rare breed of cattle that grazes on wild herbs, giving the cheese a complex, almost spicy flavor that changes with the seasons.

The area’s calendar is marked by religious festivals that blend Christian devotion with pre-Christian elements. Most spectacular is the feast of Madonna di Siponto in Manfredonia, where a statue of the Virgin is carried from the cathedral to the sea, accompanied by costumed processions and folk music played on traditional instruments like the zampogna (a type of bagpipe).

Despite its natural beauty and cultural riches, the Gargano remains refreshingly uncrowded. Outside Italian vacation periods (particularly August), you might have spectacular beaches entirely to yourself, and forest trails where your only companions are wild boar and deer.

Getting around requires a car and some patience—roads wind tortuously along cliff edges and through mountain passes, but the views compensate for every hairpin turn. The peninsula works best as a destination for slow travel. Base yourself in Vieste or Peschici for at least five days, allowing time to discover the different facets of this multifaceted region.

The Gargano’s relative isolation has preserved something increasingly rare in our hyperconnected world—a place with its own distinct rhythm, where nature still dominates, and where traditions continue not for tourists but because they remain essential to local identity. That’s precisely what makes it worth the effort to reach this wild spur jutting into the Adriatic—a piece of Italy that even many Italians have yet to fully discover.

Umbria’s Medieval Time Capsules

Umbria's Medieval Time Capsules

A. Spello: Flower-Draped Stone Streets and Roman Relics

Ever walked through a town where every corner feels like it was designed specifically for your Instagram feed? That’s Spello for you. This little gem sits on the southern slopes of Mount Subasio, and it’s the kind of place where you’ll want to lose your phone just so you can truly take it all in.

I stumbled upon Spello during a rainy April afternoon, and even with gray skies, the town was bursting with color. The locals have this obsession with flowers – not just during the famous Infiorate festival (more on that in a bit), but year-round. Virtually every balcony, doorway, and window sill boasts cascading geraniums, petunias, and bougainvillea. It’s like the entire town got together and decided, “Hey, let’s make this place ridiculously charming.”

The stone streets of Spello aren’t just pretty – they’re living history. Most tourists rush through on their way to Assisi, but they’re missing out on some serious ancient Roman cred. The town still has three Roman gates standing proud: Porta Consolare, Porta Urbica, and Porta Venere with its iconic Towers of Properzio. These aren’t roped-off museum pieces; they’re functioning parts of daily life here. Local teenagers hang out near Porta Venere just like their ancestors probably did 2,000 years ago (though with considerably more scrolling on TikTok).

Want to really see Spello come alive? Visit during the Infiorate festival, held on the ninth Sunday after Easter. The town transforms into a carpet of intricate flower petal designs that would make your grandma’s fancy china look basic. The locals spend months planning their designs and gathering flowers, then stay up all night creating these masterpieces on the street. By morning, the entire town smells divine and looks like something from a fairy tale. The artwork only lasts for the religious procession that day, which makes it all the more magical.

For food, skip the obvious tourist spots and head to Il Molino, tucked away on a side street near the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. Their truffle pasta might make you tear up a little – it’s that good. The restaurant sources everything locally, including the black truffles that the region is famous for. Pair it with a glass of Sagrantino di Montefalco, and you’ll understand why Italians take such long lunch breaks.

Speaking of the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore – don’t miss the Baglioni Chapel inside with frescoes by Pinturicchio. Sure, they’re not as famous as those Sistine Chapel paintings, but you won’t have to crane your neck in a crowd just to get a glimpse. The jewel-toned colors are still vibrant after 500 years, and the artist sneakily included a self-portrait in one scene. See if you can spot him (hint: look for the guy wearing Renaissance-era designer clothes who clearly thinks he’s all that).

Another hidden spot worth finding is Villa dei Mosaici, discovered only in 2005 during construction work. The villa contains remarkably preserved Roman mosaics depicting hunting scenes, mythological figures, and geometric patterns. What’s mind-blowing is thinking about how these elaborate floors were hidden beneath ordinary streets for centuries while locals went about their business, completely unaware.

If you’re the active type, take the walking path that connects Spello to Assisi. It follows ancient Roman aqueducts through olive groves and offers views that will have you questioning why you ever vacationed anywhere else. Pack a picnic with local cheese, bread, and wine from one of the small shops in town. The hike takes about three hours one way, but with those views, you’ll wish it was longer.

One last tip: visit in May or early June to avoid the worst of the summer crowds but still enjoy the perfect weather and blooming flowers. Or come in late autumn when the olive harvest is happening and you can taste oil so fresh it’s practically still part of the tree.

B. Bevagna: Artisan Workshops in Medieval Settings

I’d bet good money that you’ve never heard of Bevagna. And that’s exactly why you should go there. This small town sitting pretty in the Umbrian valley hasn’t changed much since medieval times, and that’s precisely its charm.

Bevagna doesn’t put on airs. While other Italian towns are busy installing mood lighting to highlight their historic buildings, Bevagna just… exists. Its authenticity hits you the moment you pass through the town gates. The main square, Piazza Silvestri, is one of those places that makes you feel like you’ve walked onto a movie set – except there’s no director yelling “cut” and the locals aren’t actors.

What makes Bevagna special is how it preserves medieval crafts not as tourist gimmicks but as living traditions. During the Mercato delle Gaite festival held every June, the town divides into four quarters (gaite), and each competes to most authentically recreate medieval life. We’re talking serious commitment here – they use only period-appropriate tools and techniques.

The artisan workshops are open year-round though, not just during the festival. You can watch paper being made the way it was in the 13th century at the Cartiera, using rags and water power. The paper feels different from anything you’d buy at Staples – it’s textured, substantial, and somehow important. I bought a small journal made of this paper, and it made even my shopping list feel like a historical document.

Then there’s the silk workshop where they raise silkworms and process the silk using medieval methods. The woman who runs it, Signora Alfonsina, has hands that tell the story of decades of this delicate work. She’ll likely show you how different natural ingredients create dyes – walnuts for brown, pomegranate for yellow, berries for purple. You’ll never look at your clothes the same way again.

My personal favorite is the blacksmith’s workshop where they forge metal using a water-powered hammer. The rhythmic pounding echoes through the stone-walled space, and the glow from the forge casts everything in a warm light. It’s hypnotic watching the blacksmith shape a piece of metal into something useful and beautiful. They typically sell small items like hooks, candle holders, and decorative pieces – all handmade the same way they would have been 800 years ago.

For a town of only about 5,000 people, Bevagna has an impressive food scene. Forget checking Yelp reviews – just follow the locals. Osteria Tagliavento on a narrow side street serves wild boar ragu that’s simmered for hours and will ruin all other pasta sauces for you forever. Pair it with the house red wine served in simple carafes, made from grapes grown just outside town.

Bevagna also has some serious Roman cred hiding in plain sight. The remains of a 2nd-century Roman theater and temple are casually incorporated into the town’s fabric. A section of mosaic floor from Roman baths is preserved inside a building on Corso Matteotti – just ask any local and they’ll point you there. It shows Neptune in a chariot pulled by sea horses, and it’s in remarkably good condition considering people have been walking over it for two millennia.

The Church of San Michele Arcangelo deserves a mention too. Its simple stone façade hides an interior that’s a fascinating mix of styles accumulated over centuries. Look for the Roman columns repurposed when the church was built in the 12th century – early upcycling at its finest.

If you stay overnight (and you should), book a room at Torre del Colle, a tiny medieval village just outside Bevagna that’s been converted into accommodations. The 11-room hotel spans several buildings in the village, and staying there feels like you’ve been given the keys to your own private medieval hamlet. The views over the Umbrian countryside from the village walls might make you consider “forgetting” to leave.

Morning is magical in Bevagna. Hit up Pasticceria Polticchia on the main square for coffee and a just-baked cornetto. The owner, Giorgio, is likely the third or fourth generation running the place. Sit outside, watch the town wake up, and you’ll understand why Italians believe so firmly in la dolce vita.

Timing your visit for late spring or early fall means comfortable weather and fewer tourists. However, if you can handle the heat, the Mercato delle Gaite in June transforms the town into its medieval heyday and is worth sweating through your shirt for.

C. Montefalco: Panoramic Views and Sagrantino Wine

They call Montefalco “the balcony of Umbria,” and five minutes after arriving, you’ll understand why. Perched high on a hill, this town delivers views that’ll have you questioning every other scenic overlook you’ve ever visited. On clear days, you can see all the way from Perugia to Spoleto, with the entire Umbrian valley spread out like a patchwork quilt of vineyards, olive groves, and fields.

But let’s get real – the views aren’t even the main reason to visit. Montefalco is all about the wine, specifically Sagrantino. This grape variety grows almost nowhere else on earth and produces some of Italy’s most powerful red wines. We’re talking bold, tannic reds that can age for decades. If Barolo is the king of Italian wines, Sagrantino di Montefalco is the mysterious duke with a dark castle that everyone whispers about.

I first tasted Sagrantino at a small family-run winery just outside town. Marco, the owner’s son who had recently taken over from his father, poured me a glass with the reverence of someone handling a newborn. “Give it time,” he said as I swirled it in my glass. He wasn’t kidding – this wine demanded patience. The first sip was an assault of tannins, but as it opened up, layers of blackberry, leather, spice, and something almost medicinal emerged. By my third sip, I was plotting how to fit a case in my luggage.

Montefalco’s town center radiates from Piazza del Comune, a perfectly proportioned square surrounded by medieval buildings. Unlike many Italian piazzas that have been taken over by tourist restaurants with multilingual menus, this one still feels authentic. Old men gather on benches to discuss politics and soccer with the same intensity, and local moms chase toddlers who’ve mastered the art of the escape run.

The church-turned-museum of San Francesco houses Montefalco’s artistic treasure – a stunning fresco cycle by Benozzo Gozzoli depicting the life of St. Francis. Created in the 1450s, these frescoes tell the saint’s story with such vivid detail and expression that they feel more like a graphic novel than religious art. What makes them special is how Gozzoli included everyday details of 15th-century life – clothing styles, agricultural tools, kitchen implements – giving us a snapshot of daily medieval living.

For lunch, skip the restaurants directly on the main square and head to L’Alchimista, tucked into a corner of the piazza. Their wine list is encyclopedic, focusing on local producers, and the staff actually know what they’re talking about. The menu changes with the seasons, but the egg pasta with duck ragu is life-changing if available. Ask for the wine pairing suggestion – they’ll likely recommend something from a tiny producer you’d never find back home.

After lunch, walk off those carbs with a stroll along the town walls. The entire circuit takes about 30 minutes and offers different panoramas at every turn. If you time it right and hit the western section around sunset, you’ll witness the Umbrian valley bathed in golden light as the sun dips behind distant hills. It’s the kind of moment that makes you forget to take a photo because you’re too busy just experiencing it.

Wine lovers shouldn’t miss the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco, where you can taste wines from multiple producers in one stop. But the real experience comes from visiting the wineries themselves. Arnaldo Caprai is the big name that put Sagrantino on the map internationally, but smaller producers like Antonelli, Scacciadiavoli, and Paolo Bea offer more intimate experiences. Most require reservations, so plan ahead.

Montefalco also produces an amazing olive oil that lives in the shadow of its famous wine. At Frantoio Marfuga, you can taste olive oils with the same seriousness that goes into wine tasting. They’ll show you how to warm the small cup in your hands, inhale the grassy aroma, and notice the peppery finish that indicates high-quality oil. Warning: once you’ve had freshly pressed Umbrian olive oil, the stuff from your local supermarket will taste like sad liquid plastic.

If you visit in May, you might catch Cantine Aperte (Open Cellars), when wineries across the region welcome visitors for tastings and events. September brings the harvest and the wine festival L’Enologica, with food stalls, music, and plenty of wine flowing. Even in winter, when the vines are bare, there’s something hauntingly beautiful about the landscape, and you’ll have most places to yourself.

For accommodation, avoid the overpriced options in the center and look to agriturismi (farm stays) in the surrounding countryside. Places like Agriturismo Camiano Piccolo offer rooms in converted farm buildings with sweeping views, home-cooked breakfasts featuring products from their land, and often their own wine and olive oil. You’ll pay less than for a basic hotel and get an authentic experience that connects you to the agricultural heritage that defines this region.

Before leaving Montefalco, buy a bottle of Sagrantino Passito – the sweet version of this wine made from dried grapes. It’s a rare treat that pairs perfectly with the strong, aged pecorino cheese also produced locally. Open it for a special occasion or when you need to remember what real flavor tastes like.

D. Gubbio: Ancient Tradition and Mountain Setting

Gubbio looks like it was built by giants. Seriously. This town climbing up the steep slopes of Mount Ingino is all massive stone buildings, imposing palaces, and streets so vertical they make San Francisco look flat. It’s a place that doesn’t compromise with modern notions of convenience, and that’s exactly its appeal.

My taxi driver from the train station put it perfectly: “Gubbio doesn’t change for tourists; tourists change for Gubbio.” And he’s right. This is one of Umbria’s oldest towns, with roots stretching back to the pre-Roman Umbri civilization, and it carries that ancient heritage with a casual confidence that’s impossible not to respect.

The first thing that hits you about Gubbio is its setting. Nestled against Monte Ingino with the wide Umbrian valley spreading out below, the town looks like it was carved directly from the mountain rather than built upon it. The buildings, constructed from local limestone, take on a pinkish hue at sunset that photographers dream about. But don’t just admire it from afar – Gubbio rewards those willing to climb its steep streets.

Start your exploration at the bottom of town in Piazza Quaranta Martiri (Forty Martyrs Square), named to commemorate local citizens killed during Nazi occupation. From there, every direction seems to be uphill. Take Via dei Consoli, the main street that runs through the heart of medieval Gubbio, lined with shops selling local ceramics in distinctive blues and yellows, truffle products, and handcrafted leather goods.

The street leads to Piazza Grande, which isn’t actually very grand in size but makes up for it with sheer audacity of design. Built in the 14th century, this square appears to hang in mid-air, supported by massive arches over the hillside below. The view from here stretches across rooftops and into the countryside beyond. The imposing Palazzo dei Consoli dominates the square, housing the Civic Museum where you’ll find the Eugubine Tablets – seven bronze plates with the most extensive surviving text in the ancient Umbrian language.

Gubbio takes its traditions seriously, none more so than the Corsa dei Ceri (Race of the Candles) held every May 15th. This isn’t some watered-down festival created for tourists; it’s a passionate, borderline chaotic event that’s been running since at least the 12th century. Three teams carry enormous wooden “candles” topped with statues of saints – each weighing about 400 kg (880 lbs) – racing up the mountain to the Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo. The teams wear different colors: yellow for St. Ubaldo (patron saint of Gubbio), blue for St. George, and black for St. Anthony.

I witnessed this festival by complete accident during my first visit, and it was like stepping into a medieval time warp. The entire town divides into factions, drinking starts early in the morning, and the atmosphere is electric with competitive energy and centuries-old rivalries. If you’re lucky enough to visit during this time, prepare for madness in the best possible way.

Even if you miss the festival, you can visit the Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo year-round by taking the funivia (cable car) up Monte Ingino. It’s less of a proper cable car and more like a birdcage dangling from a wire – just two-person metal baskets swinging alarmingly in the breeze. The locals call it “la basket” and hop in like it’s nothing, while tourists typically spend several minutes gathering courage. The views make the momentary terror worthwhile, and the basilica itself is a peaceful retreat containing the perfectly preserved body of Sant’Ubaldo in a glass coffin.

For a taste of ancient Rome, check out the Roman Theater on the outskirts of town, built in the 1st century BC and still used for summer performances. The setting is magical – watching a play or concert as the sun sets behind the stage, sitting on the same stone seats where Romans sat 2,000 years ago.

Gubbio’s cuisine is hearty mountain food designed to fuel people who climb steep streets all day. At Taverna del Lupo (Wolf’s Tavern), order the crescia – a flatbread cooked on stone and typically filled with wild greens, local cheese, and cured meats. Their wild boar stew slow-cooked with juniper berries is the kind of dish that ruins you for all other stews. Pair it with a robust red from nearby Cannara for the full experience.

For something truly unique to Gubbio, try the local truffle honey drizzled over aged pecorino cheese. The combination of sweet, earthy, and sharp flavors captures the essence of Umbrian mountain cuisine in a single bite.

Gubbio is also famous for its ceramics tradition dating back to the Middle Ages. The distinctive lustro technique creates a metallic iridescent finish that changes color depending on how light hits it. At Ceramiche Biagioli, the family has been producing these pieces for generations using methods virtually unchanged for centuries. Their workshop tour demonstrates the process from raw clay to finished piece, and yes, you’ll want to buy something despite your already-overweight luggage.

If you’re the superstitious type, don’t miss becoming officially “crazy” by circling the Fontana dei Matti (Fountain of the Mad) three times. Legend says anyone who completes this ritual receives the “Certificate of Madness,” making them an honorary citizen of Gubbio. The locals embrace their reputation for eccentricity – when asked why Gubbio has such unique traditions, they’ll likely shrug and say, “Because we’re all a little mad here.”

For accommodation, skip the modern options at the bottom of town and stay within the medieval walls. Residenza di Via Piccardi offers apartments in a 14th-century building with stone walls, wooden beams, and windows that frame picture-perfect views of terracotta rooftops. The slightly uneven floors and quirky layout are part of the charm, connecting you to centuries of residents who’ve called these buildings home.

The best time to visit Gubbio is during spring or fall when the weather is pleasant for climbing those steep streets. Winter brings a famous Christmas tree display – lights arranged on Monte Ingino in the shape of a 650-meter tall tree, claimed to be the world’s largest. Summer can be hot, but evening brings cool mountain breezes and locals emerging for the passeggiata (evening stroll), filling streets that were quiet during the afternoon heat.

Before leaving Gubbio, find your way to the small Church of Saint Francis, where according to legend, the saint tamed a wolf that had been terrorizing the town. Whether you believe the story or not, the tiny church has a special atmosphere of simplicity that captures the essence of the saint himself, far from the grand basilicas built in his name elsewhere.

Coastal Escapes Off the Tourist Map

Coastal Escapes Off the Tourist Map

A. Ponza: Rome’s Secret Island Getaway

Ever noticed how Romans disappear in summer? While tourists swarm the Colosseum in July’s blistering heat, locals quietly slip away to Ponza, their treasured island escape just 2.5 hours from the eternal city.

I stumbled upon Ponza almost by accident during my third summer in Italy. A Roman friend invited me for a weekend getaway with a casual “you’ll love it” promise. He wasn’t wrong. What I found was an island paradise that felt like stepping into a vintage Italian postcard – without the Instagram crowds.

Ponza is the largest of the Pontine Islands, a volcanic archipelago sitting pretty in the Tyrrhenian Sea. What makes it magical isn’t just the crystal-clear waters or the dramatic rocky coastline. It’s the feeling that you’ve discovered something precious that mass tourism hasn’t touched yet.

The main port greets you with a rainbow of pastel buildings hugging the hillside. Pink, yellow, and blue facades create a watercolor backdrop for fishing boats bobbing gently in the harbor. There’s something instantly calming about arriving here – perhaps it’s knowing you’re experiencing Italy as Italians do.

Most visitors make the rookie mistake of just doing a day trip. Don’t. The magic of Ponza reveals itself in lazy mornings at local cafés, afternoons exploring hidden coves, and evenings lingering over seafood dinners as the sun sets over the Mediterranean.

Speaking of those coves – the island’s coastline is a geological masterpiece. Chiaia di Luna beach might be the most photographed spot (if you’ve seen any pictures of Ponza, it was probably this crescent moon of white sand backed by a towering 100-meter cliff). But the beach has been closed due to rockslides in recent years. No worries though – locals will tell you this was always a tourist trap anyway.

Instead, hire a small boat (no license needed for the smaller ones) and circumnavigate the island at your own pace. You’ll discover secluded beaches and grottoes accessible only by water. Cala Feola, with its natural pools carved into the rock, offers swimming holes so clear you can count the scales on fish swimming beneath you.

The food scene deserves special mention. Skip the tourist spots and head to Da Giorgione in Le Forna (the island’s second village) for seafood pasta with ingredients caught that morning. Or try Il Pescatore on the main port for their famous octopus salad. Wash it all down with local Biancolella wine – crisp, slightly saline, and perfectly matched to seafood.

History buffs will appreciate knowing that Ponza has witnessed centuries of human activity. The Romans built an impressive network of tunnels and water cisterns still visible today. Legend says it was home to Circe, the sorceress who turned Odysseus’ men into pigs in Homer’s epic. Later, it served as a political prison for Mussolini’s opponents. This rich past adds layers to what could otherwise be just another pretty Mediterranean island.

Accommodations run the gamut from simple family-run pensions to luxurious villas. Hotel Chiaia di Luna offers spectacular views, while Hotel Mari has a prime harbor location. For longer stays, apartment rentals in Le Forna provide a more authentic experience away from the main port’s relative hustle.

The best times to visit? June and September offer perfect weather without the August crowds (when seemingly all of Rome relocates here). May and October work too if you’re not set on swimming every day.

Getting here takes some planning – catch a train from Rome to Formia, then a ferry (about 2.5 hours total). Or train to Anzio with a faster hydrofoil option. The extra effort acts as a natural filter, keeping Ponza from becoming another Capri.

What I love most about Ponza isn’t just what it has, but what it doesn’t have – no luxury brand stores, no cruise ship terminals, no streets clogged with tour groups following raised umbrellas. Just Italy, as Italians actually live it.

B. Procida: Candy-Colored Fishing Village Before the Fame

The tiniest island in the Bay of Naples is having a moment right now. Named Italy’s Capital of Culture in 2022, Procida is that rare gem – still authentic despite being just a 40-minute ferry ride from Naples.

I first visited Procida seven years ago on a tip from a water taxi driver in Naples who shook his head when I mentioned my plans to visit Capri. “Too many people, too expensive,” he said with a dismissive wave. “Go to Procida. That’s where we go.” His advice changed my entire trip.

Arriving at Marina Grande, Procida’s main harbor, feels like walking into a painter’s palette. The waterfront is lined with buildings in shades of pink, yellow, blue, and terracotta – colors so vivid they seem unreal. Fishermen mend nets along the quay while cats doze in patches of sunlight. This isn’t a scene created for tourists; it’s daily life on an island where fishing remains central to both economy and identity.

The island measures just 4 square kilometers (that’s smaller than New York’s Central Park), making it easily explorable on foot or by local bus. But don’t mistake its size for a lack of character. Procida packs more authentic charm into its tiny footprint than islands ten times its size.

Marina Corricella is the heart and soul of Procida, and likely the most photogenic fishing village you’ll ever see. Accessible only by foot via steep staircases, this crescent-shaped harbor features a jumble of houses stacked like colorful building blocks. The architecture evolved this way for practical reasons – fishermen needed direct access to their boats while maximizing limited space. What resulted is an unintentionally perfect composition that photographers dream about.

At sunset, grab a table at La Lampara and order their spaghetti with sea urchin while watching fishing boats return with the day’s catch. The connection between plate and sea is measured in meters, not miles.

Procida’s cuisine speaks to its fishing heritage. Simple, unpretentious dishes let the seafood shine. Try the local specialty, linguine al limone con gamberi – pasta with lemon and shrimp – using the island’s famous lemons that rival those from Amalfi. For dessert, hunt down a slice of Lingua di Procida, a pastry filled with lemon cream that will make you forget every other lemon dessert you’ve ever tried.

Terra Murata, the highest point on the island, offers more than just spectacular views. This fortified medieval village houses the former Palazzo D’Avalos, a Habsburg-era palace later converted into a prison that only closed in 1988. Tours provide fascinating insights into the island’s complex history. Nearby, the Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo contains artifacts dating back to the 11th century.

Procida’s beaches are small but stunning. Chiaiolella Beach on the island’s southern end offers shallow, calm waters perfect for families. Pozzo Vecchio gained fame as a filming location for “Il Postino” (The Postman), the beloved 1994 movie that introduced many to Procida’s charms. Chiaia Beach, accessible via 186 steps down from the main road, rewards the effort with crystal-clear waters and black volcanic sand.

Unlike its flashier neighbors Capri and Ischia, Procida has no designer boutiques or luxury resorts. Accommodations tend toward family-run B&Bs and small hotels. La Suite Boutique Hotel offers stylish rooms with sea views, while La Casa sul Mare provides apartments with kitchenettes for longer stays.

The island follows a different rhythm than the tourist hotspots nearby. Old men still gather in piazzas for animated discussions. Fishermen call to each other as they sort their catch. Laundry flutters from balconies like festival bunting. These aren’t staged experiences for visitors but simply life unfolding as it has for generations.

What makes Procida special is this authenticity combined with accessibility. Unlike remote “undiscovered” places requiring arduous journeys, Procida sits just offshore from one of Italy’s major cities, yet maintains its distinct character and pace.

The best time to visit is April through June or September through October. Summer brings Italian vacationers who have long known about this colorful secret, while winter sees many restaurants and shops close as the island retreats into itself.

When you go, resist the temptation to treat Procida as a day trip. Stay at least one night to experience the island after the day-trippers leave. Wake early to watch fishermen head out, then wander empty morning streets before other visitors arrive on the first ferries.

Procida’s days as a hidden gem are numbered. Its recent cultural spotlight has brought increased attention, and development will inevitably follow. Go now, while it remains a living community rather than a tourist stage set – while the colors are still authentic, not freshly painted for Instagram.

C. Camogli: Ligurian Beauty Without Cinque Terre Crowds

The Cinque Terre might be the Instagram darling of Italy’s Ligurian coast, but Camogli is where Italians themselves go when they want the same dramatic scenery without fighting through selfie sticks. Located just 20 kilometers east of Genoa, this fishing village delivers everything travelers seek in the famous five towns – colorful buildings, crystalline waters, fantastic seafood – with a fraction of the tourist crush.

I discovered Camogli by pure chance when a train strike stranded me in Genoa years ago. A local suggested I take the regional train that was still running and spend the day in this nearby village instead. That travel mishap turned into one of my favorite Italian discoveries.

The name “Camogli” supposedly derives from “case delle mogli” (houses of wives), referring to the women who waited at home while fishermen husbands were at sea. These historic buildings lining the waterfront are painted in warm oranges, yellows and pinks, many decorated with trompe l’oeil effects that create the illusion of architectural details – fake windows, columns, and cornices that look startlingly real until you’re up close.

These buildings aren’t just pretty facades – they’re remarkably functional. The extra-tall structures (some reaching seven stories) served as lighthouses, helping fishermen navigate home. Today they create a stunning backdrop for the pebbly beach and fishing harbor where colorful wooden boats still bob in the water.

Camogli’s waterfront promenade is pleasantly straightforward – no maze of tourist shops selling mass-produced souvenirs, just a simple walkway lined with a handful of restaurants and gelaterias. The focal point is the stunning Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, its facade striped in the distinctive Ligurian style, standing guard over the village since the 12th century.

The beach itself deserves special mention. Unlike the tiny patches of sand at the Cinque Terre that become human sardine cans in summer, Camogli’s beach stretches generously along the entire waterfront. Yes, it’s pebbly rather than sandy (bring water shoes), but the minor discomfort underfoot is more than compensated by the stunning clarity of the water.

Speaking of water – swimming here is sublime. The deep blue Mediterranean turns crystal clear near shore, offering visibility to impressive depths. The protected bay creates relatively calm conditions perfect for floating lazily while gazing up at the pastel buildings climbing the hillside.

Camogli’s food scene revolves around seafood, with a specialty you won’t find prominently featured elsewhere: anchovies. Not the sad, overly salty things from pizza toppings, but fresh anchovies prepared in ways that might convert even sworn anchovy-haters. Try them marinated at Ristorante La Camogliese, where they’re served with just olive oil, lemon and parsley, letting their clean ocean flavor shine.

Another local specialty is focaccia col formaggio di Recco, a paper-thin bread filled with melted stracchino cheese. Though originating in nearby Recco, many Camogli bakeries make excellent versions. Revello bakery on the main street produces one of the best, along with their famous camogliesi al rum – rum-soaked chocolate pastries that provide the perfect sugar rush for afternoon exploring.

For dinner, Da Paolo offers seafood with sunset views from its terrace, while the more casual Ostaia da ö Sigù serves traditional Ligurian dishes in a homey setting. Whatever you do, don’t miss trying trofie al pesto – the twisted pasta shape originates in this region and pairs perfectly with Liguria’s famous basil sauce.

The annual Fish Festival (Sagra del Pesce) held each May shows just how seriously Camogli takes its maritime heritage. The highlight is the frying of fish in what might be the world’s largest frying pan – a 4-meter diameter behemoth that cooks thousands of fish portions distributed free to attendees. It’s a joyful community celebration that draws visitors from throughout Italy but remains relatively unknown internationally.

Beyond beach lounging and eating (both worthy full-time pursuits), Camogli offers several compelling activities. The waterfront path continues to San Rocco, a hilltop hamlet reached via a scenic staircase of 800+ steps. The effort delivers panoramic views and access to hiking trails through Portofino Regional Park.

For water lovers, boat excursions to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso provide a perfect day trip. This 10th-century abbey is tucked into a tiny cove accessible only by boat or challenging hike. The surreal sight of this ancient stone structure emerging directly from the water’s edge against a backdrop of lush green hills is worth the journey alone.

Accommodations in Camogli run from simple family-run hotels to more upscale options. Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi offers seaside elegance with a private beach, while more budget-friendly choices like Hotel Casmona provide clean, comfortable rooms within easy walking distance of everything.

Getting to Camogli couldn’t be easier – regular trains from Genoa take just 25 minutes, making it an ideal day trip if you’re short on time. But I’d recommend staying at least two nights to fully embrace the relaxed rhythm that makes this village special.

The best times to visit are May-June or September-October when the weather remains warm enough for swimming but the summer crowds have thinned. July and August see an influx of Italian vacationers, though nothing approaching the tourist density of the Cinque Terre during high season.

What makes Camogli truly special isn’t just what it offers, but what it doesn’t – no cruise ship crowds, no tacky souvenir shops, no feeling that you’re walking through a theme park version of Italy. Instead, you’ll find locals going about their business, fishermen mending nets, and perhaps most preciously, space to breathe and simply enjoy being in one of the most beautiful coastal spots in all of Italy.

When evening comes and the day-trippers have departed, grab a spritz at a waterfront café and watch the sunset paint those famous tall buildings in golden light. You’ll wonder why everyone’s fighting for space in the Cinque Terre when this perfect alternative was here all along.

Food-Focused Destinations for Culinary Explorers

Food-Focused Destinations for Culinary Explorers

A. Modena: Balsamic Vinegar and World-Class Dining

Most tourists rush past Modena on their way to Florence or Bologna, completely missing one of Italy’s most extraordinary food scenes. What a mistake. This elegant city in Emilia-Romagna is basically food heaven on earth.

The first thing you need to know about Modena is that real balsamic vinegar will ruin you for life. Forget that watery stuff in grocery stores. Traditional balsamic vinegar from Modena (Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena DOP) is aged for a minimum of 12 years in wooden barrels, with some varieties aging for 25+ years. The result? A thick, glossy syrup that’s both sweet and tangy—more like liquid gold than vinegar.

I spent an afternoon at Acetaia di Giorgio, a family-run producer where Giovanna showed me barrels her grandfather started in the 1870s. Yes, some balsamic here is older than your great-grandparents. The tasting was a revelation: just a few drops on Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese created flavors I didn’t know existed.

The process is almost spiritual. Families pass down barrels through generations, with daughters traditionally receiving a set as part of their dowry. The vinegar starts in larger barrels made from oak, then moves annually to smaller barrels made from different woods like cherry, mulberry, and juniper—each imparting subtle flavors.

But timing matters. Visit between October and March to see the actual production process. In summer, you’ll still get tours and tastings, but you’ll miss the actual cooking of grape must (freshly crushed grape juice) that begins the magical transformation.

Beyond balsamic, Modena proudly hosts Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana, which has earned three Michelin stars and topped the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list multiple times. Getting a reservation requires planning months in advance, but there’s a hack: try Bottura’s more casual spot, Franceschetta58, where the waiting list is shorter but the creativity remains off the charts.

For something truly local, head to Hosteria Giusti. Hidden behind a deli counter and with just four tables, this 400-year-old restaurant serves dishes that haven’t changed in centuries. Their tortellini in brodo—tiny pasta parcels swimming in clear, intensely flavored broth—might be the single most perfect bite in all of Italy.

The covered market, Mercato Albinelli, offers the perfect morning activity. Grab a caffè at the central bar, then wander stalls piled with fresh produce, regional cheeses, and cured meats. The vendors actually love explaining their products to foreigners who show genuine interest.

Modena also produces some of Italy’s best Lambrusco—nothing like the sweet stuff exported in the 1970s. This slightly sparkling red wine perfectly cuts through the richness of local cuisine. Try it at Archer, a wine bar where young locals gather each evening for aperitivo.

What makes Modena special is how unpretentious it remains despite its culinary fame. The streets aren’t clogged with tourist groups. Prices stay reasonable. And locals still dominate the best restaurants—always a good sign.

B. Alba: White Truffle Heaven in Piedmont

Alba might be small, but it packs a massive punch in Italy’s food scene. This unassuming town in Piedmont’s Langhe region becomes the epicenter of culinary obsession every autumn when the world’s most prized fungi—white truffles—come into season.

The white truffle (Tuber magnatum) is the diamond of the culinary world. Unlike the black truffle varieties that can be cultivated, the white Alba truffle stubbornly refuses domestication. They must be hunted in the wild, usually at dawn or dusk, by trained trifolau (truffle hunters) and their specialized dogs. Pigs were traditionally used but are now banned because they tend to eat the precious finds!

The International Alba White Truffle Fair runs from October through early December, transforming this sleepy town into a gastronomic circus. But here’s what most tourists don’t realize—the real action happens away from the main pavilion. Local hunters often hold back their best specimens from the official market, selling them directly to longtime restaurant clients or to those in the know.

One morning, I followed Paolo, a third-generation truffle hunter, and his dog Birba into the foggy hills outside town. He showed me how the dogs detect the truffle scent through layers of soil and leaf litter. When Birba started frantically digging at the base of an oak tree, Paolo gently moved her aside and extracted a lumpy, beige-colored object about the size of a golf ball. “About €200 worth,” he shrugged, but his proud smile gave away his excitement.

The white truffle’s aroma is intoxicating—earthy, musky, with hints of garlic and honey. Unlike black truffles, whites are never cooked. They’re shaved raw over dishes, their heat-sensitive compounds releasing an aroma that perfumes the entire room. The simplest preparations often showcase them best: tajarin (thin egg pasta) with butter, a fried egg, or risotto.

At Piazza Duomo, chef Enrico Crippa’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant, I watched as a waiter shaved paper-thin slices of white truffle over a simple dish of handmade egg pasta. The bill for that single dish would make most people gasp, but the experience was transcendent. For more affordable truffle experiences, try La Piola in the same building, offering traditional Piedmontese cuisine with seasonal truffle options.

But Alba isn’t just about truffles. This region produces some of Italy’s most prestigious wines. Barolo and Barbaresco, both made from the Nebbiolo grape, are often called “the king and queen of wines.” Their complex, tannic structures and incredible aging potential make them perfect partners for the region’s rich cuisine.

Between truffle hunts and wine tastings, don’t miss Alba’s other specialties: carne cruda (essentially beef tartare), vitello tonnato (cold sliced veal with tuna sauce), and tajarin al ragù. Each restaurant has their secret variations, passed down through generations.

The local hazelnut variety, Nocciola Piemonte IGP, is considered the world’s finest and supplies nearby Ferrero for their Nutella production. Small producers like Relanghe make artisanal hazelnut confections that will forever change your chocolate expectations.

Visit in late October to early November for peak truffle season, but be prepared for higher prices and crowded restaurants. Always make reservations weeks in advance. Spring and early summer offer a quieter experience of Alba’s charms, minus the truffles but with beautiful landscapes and more available accommodations.

C. Norcia: Preserved Meat Paradise in Umbria’s Mountains

Tucked away in the Sibillini Mountains of southeastern Umbria, Norcia isn’t easy to reach. You’ll need to navigate winding mountain roads, far from train stations and airports. And that’s exactly why it remains one of Italy’s most authentic food destinations.

The isolation of this medieval town has fostered a unique food culture centered around preservation—particularly pork. The term “norcineria” is used throughout Italy to describe shops specializing in pork products, named after this very town where the art of butchery and meat preservation reached extraordinary heights.

Norcia’s pork tradition dates back to the 13th century when local butchers formed their own guild. These norcini became so skilled they traveled throughout Italy during winter months, offering their expertise to wealthy families needing to preserve their annual pig slaughter. This tradition made Norcia synonymous with pork mastery.

I arrived in Norcia on a chilly October morning when fog clung to the valley and the scent of wood smoke filled the air. Walking through the main square, I counted six norcinerie within sight, their windows displaying hanging prosciutti, strings of sausages, and various salumi. The pride of Norcia is prosciutto di Norcia IGP, aged at least 12 months and distinctive for its darker color and more intense flavor than its famous cousin from Parma.

At Norcineria Ansuini, owner Paolo invited me into his aging room—a cool, dimly lit space where hundreds of hams hung from the ceiling. “The mountain air makes our prosciutto special,” he explained, slicing paper-thin pieces for me to taste. “We’re at 600 meters elevation, with dry air coming down from the mountains and up from the valleys. Nature does half the work.”

But Norcia’s signature product is the ciauscolo, a spreadable salami made from finely ground pork seasoned with pepper, garlic, and wine. Smooth enough to spread on bread like pâté, it’s unlike any salami I’ve encountered elsewhere in Italy. At Brancaleone da Norcia, they still make it by hand, filling casings and aging them in natural caves beneath the shop.

The region’s isolation has preserved cooking techniques that disappeared elsewhere. At Granaro del Monte, Umbria’s oldest restaurant (opened in 1850), I watched as the chef prepared lentil soup with cotiche (pork rinds)—a humble dish elevated through careful technique. The famous Castelluccio lentils, grown on nearby plains, are tiny but hold their shape perfectly when cooked.

Black truffles (both summer and winter varieties) grow abundantly in the surrounding forests. Unlike Alba’s white truffles, these can be cooked, intensifying their flavor. Many local dishes feature them, from simple egg preparations to more complex pasta dishes like strangozzi al tartufo, a hand-rolled pasta that catches the truffle sauce perfectly.

The monks of the Benedictine monastery of St. Benedict (sadly damaged in the 2016 earthquake) developed many preservation techniques and products that endure today. Their most famous creation might be Alcoholato, a medicinal herb-infused alcohol that locals still produce according to the ancient recipe.

Traditional shops sell another monastic specialty—cioccolato di Norcia—made with honey instead of sugar. The richness comes from the mountain wildflower honey, giving it a complex flavor profile unlike commercial chocolate.

Cheese production thrives in these mountains too. Sheep and goat herding traditions date back millennia, resulting in distinctive cheeses like pecorino di Norcia, aged in underground grottos where natural molds create complex flavors. For the freshest experience, try raviggiolo—a soft, fresh cheese traditionally wrapped in fern leaves and eaten within days of production.

Norcia suffered severely in the 2016 earthquakes that damaged much of central Italy. Many historic buildings, including the Basilica of St. Benedict, were destroyed. But the food artisans have shown remarkable resilience, with most businesses reopening quickly. Visiting and supporting local producers has become an act of cultural preservation.

D. Trapani: Sicilian Couscous and Salt Flat Cuisine

When Italians want to experience food that doesn’t quite feel Italian, they head to Sicily. And when Sicilians want something truly distinctive, they go to Trapani on the western coast. This sun-baked city, closer to Tunisia (150 km) than to Rome (800 km), has a cuisine unlike anywhere else on the peninsula.

Trapani’s location made it a natural crossroads of Mediterranean civilizations. Arabs, Normans, Spanish, and North Africans have all left their mark on the local food culture. The result is a cuisine that feels more North African than Italian in many ways, yet remains distinctly Sicilian.

The signature dish is couscous alla trapanese, completely different from the couscous you’d find in Morocco or Tunisia. Here, couscous grains are hand-rolled with water (never steamed), then slowly cooked in fish broth and served with a mixed seafood stew. The tradition dates back to Arab rule in the 9th century but evolved uniquely in this fishing community.

At Cantina Siciliana, tucked away in Trapani’s historic Jewish quarter, I watched Pino Maggiore demonstrate the traditional method of working semolina flour with water in a mafaradda (a large ceramic bowl). “My grandmother taught me this technique,” he explained, rubbing the mixture between his palms to form tiny grains. “No machine can replicate the texture.” The resulting couscous has an irregular shape that holds sauce perfectly.

The fish markets of Trapani offer a dizzying array of Mediterranean seafood, much of which goes straight into the fish couscous. Red mullet, rockfish, and the prized ricciola (amberjack) form the base of the broth, while the final dish includes everything from mussels and clams to shrimp and chunks of firm white fish.

Trapani’s location between two seas (the Tyrrhenian and Mediterranean) created perfect conditions for another culinary treasure: sea salt. The salt flats stretching north of the city toward Marsala have been in operation since Phoenician times. The shallow basins fill with seawater, which evaporates under the intense Sicilian sun, leaving behind exceptionally pure salt crystals.

These salt flats have created their own micro-cuisine. At Trattoria del Sale, built right beside the salt pans, they serve dishes cooked on hot salt stones—a technique that infuses food with a subtle salinity while requiring minimal added fat. Their salt-crusted fish is a revelation—the crust seals in moisture while delicately seasoning the flesh.

The salt harvest happens in August, creating surreal landscapes of white pyramids against pink-hued waters (the color comes from algae that thrive in extremely saline conditions). The Salt Museum (Museo delle Saline) offers fascinating insights into this ancient industry, which still operates largely by hand using traditional wooden tools.

Trapani’s almond cultivation, another Arab introduction, features prominently in local sweets. Pasta di mandorle (almond paste) forms the base for many pastries, including the realistic-looking frutta martorana—marzipan molded and painted to resemble perfect miniature fruits. At Pasticceria Maria Grammatico in nearby Erice, the recipes come directly from the cloistered nuns who once kept their techniques secret.

The town of Erice, perched 750 meters above Trapani on a mountaintop, offers not just sweeping coastal views but its own culinary specialties. The most famous is genovesi ericine—pastries filled with sweet custard cream, allegedly introduced by sailors from Genoa centuries ago but perfected in this mountain town.

Busiate is Trapani’s distinctive pasta shape—long strands twisted like corkscrews, traditionally formed by wrapping the dough around thin reeds. They’re typically served with pesto alla trapanese, which bears little resemblance to Ligurian pesto. The Trapani version combines fresh tomatoes, almonds, garlic, and local herbs, all pounded in a mortar and pestle.

Wine lovers shouldn’t miss Trapani’s contribution to Sicily’s viticultural renaissance. The Grillo grape, once used primarily for Marsala production, now produces exceptional dry white wines with saline notes that perfectly complement seafood. The wineries around Marsala offer tastings of both traditional fortified wines and contemporary interpretations.

What makes Trapani’s food scene special is its stubborn resistance to homogenization. While tourism has certainly arrived, local food traditions remain intact, practiced daily rather than preserved as museum pieces. Restaurants serve what local people actually eat, rather than sanitized versions for foreign palates.

The best time to visit is April through June, when the weather is perfect and the spring seafood harvest brings tiny red shrimp, sea urchins, and the first of the season’s tuna. September offers another perfect window, with fewer tourists and the excitement of the grape and olive harvests.

Mountain Retreats with Authentic Culture

Mountain Retreats with Authentic Culture

A. Matera’s Surrounding Villages: Beyond the Sassi

You’ve probably seen those jaw-dropping photos of Matera’s ancient cave dwellings all over Instagram. But what about the gorgeous villages tucked away in the surrounding hills? This is where the real magic happens.

I stumbled upon Craco almost by accident. This ghost town sits perched on a rocky cliff, abandoned since a landslide in the 1960s. Walking through its empty streets feels like stepping into a time capsule. The crumbling buildings tell stories of families who lived here for generations before nature forced them out. Movie directors love this place too – parts of “Quantum of Solace” and “The Passion of the Christ” were filmed here.

Just a 30-minute drive from Matera, you’ll find Montescaglioso, home to the impressive Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo. This massive Benedictine monastery isn’t just a religious site – it’s the heart of the town. Stop by during the afternoon passeggiata when locals stroll through the piazza, and you’ll get pulled into conversations that could last hours. Try the cardoncelli mushrooms at Trattoria La Bottega – these local fungi grow wild in the surrounding forests and taste nothing like the button mushrooms you’re used to.

For a truly authentic experience, head to Irsina. This tiny hilltop town flies completely under the tourist radar, which is exactly why you should go. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta houses a rare treasure – the only statue by Andrea Mantegna outside of Northern Italy. The town’s narrow streets wind up and down the hillside, opening occasionally to reveal panoramic views that’ll make your jaw drop.

Food in these villages follows ancient traditions passed down through generations. At harvest festivals, you’ll find orecchiette pasta made by hand right before your eyes, often served with simple turnip tops (cime di rapa) and crispy breadcrumbs. The flavors are so clean and straightforward that you’ll wonder why anyone bothers with complicated sauces.

Aliano deserves special mention. This remote village inspired Carlo Levi’s famous memoir “Christ Stopped at Eboli,” written during his political exile here in the 1930s. The landscape around Aliano is otherworldly – eroded clay hills called “calanchi” create a lunar-like terrain that stretches to the horizon. Visit during October for the “Festa della Paesologia,” when the entire village transforms into a living museum celebrating rural life through storytelling, music, and food.

The accommodation options in these villages won’t appear on major booking sites. Instead, look for “alberghi diffusi” – a uniquely Italian concept where rooms are scattered throughout the village in restored historic buildings. In Pietrapertosa, you can stay in a converted 13th-century home with stone walls two feet thick and wake up to views of the Lucanian Dolomites.

Speaking of Pietrapertosa, this village and its neighbor Castelmezzano offer one of Italy’s most thrilling experiences – the “Volo dell’Angelo” (Flight of the Angel). Strap into a harness and zip line between the two villages, suspended hundreds of meters above the valley floor. Your screams will echo across the mountains as you reach speeds of 120 km/h.

The best time to visit these villages is during late spring or early fall when temperatures are pleasant and seasonal festivals fill the calendar. Each May, Miglionico celebrates the “Feast of the Crucifix,” featuring a procession with a wooden crucifix dating back to the 16th century. The atmosphere is solemn yet joyful – a perfect representation of southern Italian spirituality.

B. Abruzzo National Park: Wildlife and Mountain Cuisine

The Abruzzo National Park might be Italy’s best-kept secret. While tourists flock to the Dolomites or Lake Como, this wild expanse of mountains, forests, and meadows remains blissfully uncrowded. And that’s precisely why the wildlife here thrives like nowhere else in Italy.

Marsican brown bears are the stars of the show. Only about 50 of these magnificent creatures remain in the wild, and almost all of them live within the park boundaries. Unlike their more aggressive cousins elsewhere, these bears have evolved alongside humans for centuries and generally avoid confrontation. The best time to spot them is at dawn or dusk in late spring when they emerge from hibernation hungry and more active. Hire a local guide in Pescasseroli who knows their habits – they’ll take you to meadows where bears forage for berries and roots.

Wolves have made an impressive comeback here too. Pack numbers have grown steadily since hunting was banned, and today around 100 wolves patrol these mountains. Their howls echoing through the valleys at night will send shivers down your spine – not from fear but from the primal thrill of experiencing nature at its most authentic. Join a guided wolf-tracking excursion from Civitella Alfedena, where the Wolf Museum provides fascinating insights into these misunderstood predators.

The Apennine chamois bounds effortlessly across seemingly impossible terrain. These agile mountain goats were once down to just 30 individuals but now number over 1,000 thanks to conservation efforts. Bring binoculars to Val di Rose for your best chance of spotting them against the rocky slopes.

Bird enthusiasts, prepare to fill your life lists. Golden eagles soar above the mountain peaks, while the rare white-backed woodpecker taps away at ancient beech trees. The park is also home to the rock partridge, eagle owl, and peregrine falcon. Dawn chorus here during spring migration is an experience you’ll never forget.

But Abruzzo isn’t just about wildlife – the food traditions here are equally wild and wonderful. Mountain cuisine in this region developed from centuries of shepherding traditions, resulting in hearty, flavorful dishes perfect after a day of hiking.

Arrosticini is the undisputed king of Abruzzo street food – thin skewers of mutton grilled over charcoal and seasoned simply with olive oil and salt. The best place to try them is at Ristoro Giuliani in Scanno, where they’re served with local bread called “pane di mais” made with cornmeal. The contrast between the smoky meat and slightly sweet bread is nothing short of magical.

Pasta here takes forms you won’t find elsewhere. Maccheroni alla chitarra is made by pressing dough through a wooden frame strung with metal wires (resembling a guitar, hence the name). The resulting square-shaped pasta has a texture that perfectly captures hearty sauces. Try it with ragù di castrato (mutton sauce) at Taverna 58 in Pescocostanzo, where they’ve been making it the same way for generations.

Cheese production follows the rhythm of the seasons. In spring and summer, shepherds move their flocks to high mountain pastures, producing cheeses in stone huts called “stazzi.” Pecorino d’Abruzzo ages wonderfully, developing complex flavors that reflect the wild herbs the sheep graze on. The most special variety is “Gregoriano,” aged in caves near Rivisondoli where the specific microclimate creates unique mold patterns on the rind.

Foraging remains a way of life here. After autumn rains, locals head to the forests to collect porcini mushrooms so flavorful they need little more than a quick sauté with garlic and parsley. Wild asparagus, juniper berries, and gentian roots find their way into both food and the famous digestive liqueurs of the region. At Trattoria del Parco in Villetta Barrea, the menu changes daily based on what’s been foraged that morning.

The villages within and around the park offer authentic mountain hospitality. Pescasseroli serves as the park’s unofficial capital, with stone houses clustered around a medieval core. Stay at Albergo Paradiso, a family-run inn where Nonna Lucia still makes breakfast pastries from scratch each morning.

For something truly special, book a room at Rifugio del Falco in Opi, a mountain hut accessible only by a 45-minute hike. The lack of light pollution makes stargazing here extraordinary – on clear nights, the Milky Way arcs overhead like a celestial highway.

Hiking options range from gentle meadow walks to challenging alpine climbs. The most rewarding trail might be the one to Monte Amaro from the Piano Cinquemiglia plateau. The seven-hour round trip takes you through every ecosystem in the park, from beech forests to alpine meadows to rocky peaks with views stretching all the way to the Adriatic on clear days.

Winter transforms the park into a quiet wonderland. Cross-country skiing trails wind through forests where animal tracks tell stories in the snow. The small resort at Roccaraso offers downhill options without the crowds or prices of northern Italian ski destinations.

C. South Tyrol’s Hidden Valleys: Germanic Italy at its Finest

Cross the invisible line into South Tyrol, and you might wonder if you’ve accidentally wandered into Austria. Road signs appear in both Italian and German. Onion-domed churches rise against Alpine backdrops. And locals greet you with “Grüß Gott” instead of “Buongiorno.” This autonomous province represents Italy’s most fascinating cultural blend – but tourists typically only visit the main attractions like Bolzano or Lake Braies.

The real treasures lie in the hidden valleys branching off from the better-known Eisack and Puster valleys. These secluded enclaves preserve centuries-old traditions, distinctive architecture, and landscapes that’ll have you picking your jaw up off the floor.

Val Senales (Schnalstal) stretches toward the Austrian border, ending at the foot of glaciers where Ötzi the Iceman was discovered in 1991. This 5,300-year-old mummy revolutionized our understanding of Bronze Age life, but the valley itself seems frozen in time. The village of Certosa (Karthaus) began as a Carthusian monastery in 1326. Today, the former monk cells house families who continue traditional crafts like woodcarving and weaving. The wool from the valley’s sheep produces a distinctive rough fabric called “Loden” that’s practically waterproof – perfect for the mountain climate.

The most extraordinary experience in Val Senales happens each June during the “Transumanza.” Shepherds lead thousands of sheep across the Alps from South Tyrol to summer pastures in Austria, following routes used since medieval times. Join locals at Maso Corto to watch this spectacular procession – or better yet, ask permission to walk alongside for part of the journey.

Val Martello (Martelltal) deserves its nickname “the wild valley.” This 20-kilometer slice of paradise produces the best strawberries in Italy – tiny, intensely flavored berries that grow sweeter because of the altitude’s temperature extremes. The annual Strawberry Festival in July transforms the sleepy village of Martello into a gastronomic paradise, with dishes ranging from traditional strawberry dumplings to innovative strawberry risotto.

The valley’s remoteness preserved unique architecture you won’t find elsewhere. The “Höfe” (farmsteads) feature distinctive wooden balconies where fruit and herbs dry in the mountain air. Many date back 400+ years and remain in the same families who built them. At Gasthof Waldheim, you can sleep in rooms with original 17th-century wood paneling and dine on trout caught that morning in the rushing Plima River below.

Hiking trails in Val Martello connect working Alpine farms where you can stop for fresh buttermilk or homemade cheese. The “Milky Way” route takes you to four different dairy farms, each with its own specialty. At Hofschank Waldruhe, their grey-blue cheese develops its distinctive color from a mold that grows naturally in their 300-year-old cellar.

Val d’Ultimo (Ultental) hides the oldest living things in Europe – ancient larches estimated to be over 2,000 years old. These gnarled giants near the village of Santa Gertrude (St. Gertraud) were saplings when Rome was at its height. Standing beside them puts human existence into humbling perspective. The valley’s traditional farmhouses feature distinctive “black kitchens” – rooms without chimneys where smoke from cooking fires preserved the wooden ceiling beams and infused them with flavor that transferred to hams and sausages hung there.

The cuisine throughout these valleys reflects their unique position between cultures. You’ll find Italian pasta alongside Austrian dumplings (knödel), often on the same menu. At Gasthaus Waldheim in Val d’Ultimo, their signature dish combines these influences: schlutzkrapfen (ravioli-like pockets) stuffed with spinach and mountain cheese, served with browned butter and Parmesan.

Language here tells the story of cultural resilience. Many valleys maintain their own distinct German dialects that developed in isolation over centuries. In the remote village of Taufers im Münstertal, some older residents still speak Romansh, a Latin-derived language predating both Italian and German in the region. Ask politely, and locals might teach you phrases in these endangered languages.

The most spectacular hidden valley might be Val di Funes (Villnösstal), where the jagged Odle peaks (known as the “needles” in the local dialect) form a backdrop straight out of a fairy tale. The tiny village of Santa Maddalena features the most photographed church in the Dolomites, yet somehow remains uncrowded even in summer. Stay at Pension Geisler, where three generations work together to serve traditional dishes like smoked speck with homemade horseradish and rye bread.

Wine production in these valleys defies conventional wisdom. At altitudes where grapes shouldn’t thrive, determined vintners produce exceptional bottles. The Pacherhof winery in Val d’Isarco grows Sylvaner, Kerner, and Müller-Thurgau varieties on terraced slopes so steep that all work must be done by hand. Their wines develop incredible minerality from the slate soil and intense aromatics from the extreme temperature shifts between day and night.

Thermal baths in these valleys harness mineral-rich waters that bubble up from deep underground. In Bagni di Rabbi, the iron-rich springs were known to the Romans but remain delightfully uncrowded today. The simple wooden bathhouses feel like a time machine to an earlier era of wellness, before Instagram-ready infinity pools took over the spa world.

The most magical time to visit might be during “Törggelen” in autumn. This traditional harvest celebration involves hiking between farms to sample new wine, roasted chestnuts, and hearty farm cuisine. In Val Sarentino (Sarntal), many farms open only during these few weeks, serving homemade sausages, sauerkraut, and sweet fritters called “Krapfen” filled with poppy seeds or wild lingonberries.

Winter transforms these valleys into pristine wonderlands far from the glamorous ski resorts. In Val Fiscalina (Fischleintal), cross-country ski trails wind through forests and past frozen waterfalls. The only sounds are your skis on fresh powder and perhaps the distant bell of a horse-drawn sleigh offering rides between mountain huts serving mulled wine and apple strudel.

Art Cities Without the Tourist Buses

Art Cities Without the Tourist Buses

A. Mantua: Renaissance Masterpieces in Peaceful Settings

Ever gotten stuck in a mob of selfie sticks while trying to admire art? Yeah, me too. That’s why Mantua (or Mantova, as Italians call it) feels like such a revelation.

This small city in Lombardy sits surrounded by artificial lakes, creating what locals call “a city of water without a beach.” But what Mantua lacks in coastline, it makes up for with jaw-dropping Renaissance architecture and art—minus the crowds that plague Florence or Rome.

The star attraction? The massive Palazzo Ducale, former home of the powerful Gonzaga family who ruled here for nearly 400 years. With over 500 rooms, this palace complex is actually larger than the Vatican. Let that sink in for a minute.

Walking through the Camera degli Sposi (Bridal Chamber), you’ll see Mantegna’s incredible ceiling fresco that creates a mind-bending illusion of an open sky above. People in 1474 must have lost their minds seeing this—it’s basically Renaissance virtual reality. The optical illusion still makes visitors stop and stare up in wonder, mouths slightly open.

A few minutes’ walk away stands Palazzo Te, a pleasure palace built for Federico II Gonzaga in the 1520s. The architect Giulio Romano created rooms that will make you question what you’re seeing. The most famous is the Sala dei Giganti (Hall of Giants), where painted walls, ceiling, and floor blend together in a chaotic scene of mythological giants being crushed by falling masonry. It’s disorienting and thrilling—like being inside someone else’s nightmare.

Hungry after all that art? Mantua’s cuisine is some of Italy’s most distinctive. Try the local pumpkin tortelli with amaretti cookies crumbled on top—that sweet-savory combo hits differently here. Or sample sbrisolona, a crumbly almond cake that locals break apart with their hands rather than cutting it (so much more satisfying).

The best part? You can wander Mantua’s Renaissance streets in relative peace. While Italian tourists know about its charms, international travelers haven’t caught on yet. This means you can actually hear yourself think while looking at world-class art.

Come evening, join locals for a passeggiata along the lakefront before settling into a quiet restaurant. No rush, no reservations made months in advance, no tourist menus. Just you and Renaissance masterpieces, having a moment together.

B. Ravenna: Byzantine Mosaics in a Relaxed Atmosphere

Ravenna doesn’t show off. It doesn’t need to.

This unassuming city tucked away in Emilia-Romagna holds some of the most spectacular Byzantine art in existence, yet somehow remains off the standard tourist track. Their loss, your gain.

Ravenna was once the capital of the Western Roman Empire, then of the Ostrogothic Kingdom, then of Byzantine Italy. All those powerful rulers left behind religious buildings decorated with mosaics that will honestly make your jaw drop.

Eight—yes, eight—of Ravenna’s buildings are UNESCO World Heritage sites, clustered close enough together that you can see them all on foot in a day (though you really shouldn’t rush it).

Let’s talk about these mosaics. We’re not talking about your grandmother’s bathroom tile here. These are walls, ceilings, and domes completely covered in tiny glass pieces, creating images so vibrant they look like they were installed yesterday, not 1,500 years ago.

At the Basilica of San Vitale, step inside the octagonal church and look up. The dome shows Christ seated on a blue orb representing the universe, handing a crown to Saint Vitale. The colors—deep blues, emerald greens, rich golds—glow even in dim light. The effect is almost psychedelic.

Nearby, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia might look plain from outside, but step in (and let your eyes adjust to the darkness) and you’re surrounded by a midnight-blue ceiling scattered with golden stars. It feels like standing inside a jewelry box.

The Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo features a procession of saints and virgins marching along the walls toward Christ and Mary. Look closely at these figures—their feet seem to hover just above the ground line, creating an otherworldly floating effect.

What makes Ravenna special isn’t just these incredible artworks—it’s experiencing them without being crushed by tour groups. You can actually sit on a bench and take your time absorbing the details. Try doing that in the Sistine Chapel!

Between basilica visits, the city itself offers laid-back pleasures. The main square, Piazza del Popolo, hums with locals chatting over coffee. Streets are mainly pedestrianized, making wandering a delight. And Ravenna’s food scene is pure Romagna—piadina flatbreads stuffed with prosciutto and squacquerone cheese make the perfect quick lunch.

Ravenna also has a literary side—Dante Alighieri spent his final years here, and his tomb has become a place of pilgrimage. Byron and Oscar Wilde also fell for the city’s quiet charms.

Just nine miles from town lies the Adriatic coast, where you can finish your day with a sunset aperitivo by the sea. How many art cities offer that option?

C. Urbino: Ducal Palace and Renaissance Perfection

Perched on twin hills in Le Marche region sits Urbino, a perfectly preserved Renaissance town that seems frozen in time. This isn’t some touristy recreation—it’s the real deal.

Getting to Urbino takes effort. Tucked away in the rolling hills of central Italy with no train station, you’ll need to bus in from nearby cities or brave the winding roads yourself. But that journey keeps the crowds away and rewards those who make the effort.

As you approach, the town appears like a mirage—terracotta rooftops clustered around the imposing Palazzo Ducale. This palace isn’t just any old duke’s house. It represents one of the most important Renaissance buildings in Italy and was built by Federico da Montefeltro, a one-eyed military commander turned culture-obsessed ruler.

Federico transformed this medieval town into a Renaissance showcase, attracting artists and intellectuals from across Europe. His court became what historians call “the ideal Renaissance court,” a place where art, science, mathematics, and literature flourished together.

The palace itself deserves hours of your time. The studiolo (study) features mind-boggling wood inlay work creating trompe l’oeil bookshelves, musical instruments, and scientific tools. The technique, called intarsia, uses different woods to create scenes with perfect perspective—it’s like Renaissance 3D printing.

The palace also houses the National Gallery of the Marche, where you’ll find Piero della Francesca’s eerily beautiful “Flagellation of Christ” and his portrait of Federico himself, showing his distinctive broken nose and missing right eye (lost in a tournament). Look at how Piero painted him in profile from his “good” side—Renaissance PR at its finest.

Urbino’s greatest son is Raphael, born here in 1483. You can visit his birthplace, now a museum, just a short walk from the palace. It’s striking how this small hill town produced one of history’s greatest painters—something in the water, perhaps?

What makes Urbino special is how the entire town forms a cohesive architectural whole. Federico didn’t just build a palace; he renovated the entire city according to Renaissance principles of harmony and proportion. Walking the steep, winding streets feels like moving through a perfectly designed Renaissance set piece.

The University of Urbino, founded in 1506, keeps the town lively despite its museum-like perfection. Students crowd the cafés and bars around Piazza della Repubblica, creating a surprising energy for such a small place.

At sunset, join locals at the Parco della Resistenza for views across the surrounding countryside—rolling hills dotted with farmhouses that could have stepped right out of a Renaissance painting. The landscape here hasn’t changed much in 500 years.

Urbino’s restaurants serve hearty Marchigiani cuisine—try passatelli (bread crumb pasta) in broth or crescia sfogliata (a layered flatbread) stuffed with wild greens. Wash it down with Verdicchio wine from nearby vineyards.

As evening falls and the day-trippers leave, Urbino reveals its most magical side. Walking the lamplit streets, you’ll feel like you’ve slipped through time back to the 1500s. Just watch out for those cobblestones after a few glasses of wine.

D. Lucca: Preserved Walls and Musical Heritage

Circle a Renaissance city on a bike. Eat at restaurants where the menu hasn’t changed in centuries. Listen to Puccini arias floating from open church windows. Welcome to Lucca, where medieval and Renaissance treasures exist without the tourist circus of nearby Florence.

Lucca’s defining feature hits you immediately—it’s completely surrounded by massive Renaissance walls. Unlike most Italian cities that demolished their protective barriers as they grew, Lucca preserved its 4.2-kilometer circuit of fortifications. Today, these walls serve as an elevated park, a 30-meter-wide tree-lined promenade perfect for walking, jogging, or cycling.

Rent a bike (there are rental spots near every entrance gate) and circle the entire city in about 30 minutes—or take all day, stopping at the playgrounds, cafés, and shady benches along the way. The views switch between the tiled rooftops inside the walls and the mountains beyond, giving you perfect photo ops at every turn.

Inside those walls, Lucca reveals itself as a perfectly preserved grid of Roman streets filled with Renaissance palaces, medieval towers, and over 100 churches. The city’s layout still follows its ancient Roman plan—you’re literally walking streets laid out 2,000 years ago.

Piazza dell’Anfiteatro might be the most distinctive square in Italy. Built inside an ancient Roman amphitheater, the oval plaza preserves the exact shape of the original structure. The buildings around the edge follow the curve of the former arena, creating a perfectly enclosed space that now hosts cafés and restaurants. Sit with an aperitivo and watch the light change across the yellow and orange buildings as evening approaches.

Music runs through Lucca’s veins—this is the birthplace of composer Giacomo Puccini, and the city celebrates its musical son with pride. Visit his birth house museum, then catch one of the nightly Puccini concerts held in the Church of San Giovanni. Hearing “Nessun Dorma” performed in a candlelit 12th-century church creates goosebumps every time.

Climb the Guinigi Tower for Lucca’s most iconic view. This medieval tower has a garden of oak trees growing on its roof—yes, actual full-sized trees. The contrast of green leaves against terracotta rooftops makes for unforgettable photos, especially in late afternoon light.

Lucca’s cuisine reflects its inland location and medieval traditions. Try the local specialty, tordelli lucchesi—meat-filled pasta with a rich meat sauce—or buccellato, a sweet bread flavored with anise and raisins that dates back centuries. Local restaurants serve these dishes exactly as they’ve been made for generations.

Shopping here focuses on quality over quantity. Via Fillungo, the main shopping street, mixes designer boutiques with tiny specialty shops selling hand-crafted leather goods, locally made ceramics, and buccellato from bakeries that have operated for centuries.

Unlike Florence, where you’re constantly dodging tour groups, Lucca allows for peaceful wandering. Even in summer, you can find quiet corners to yourself, especially in early morning or evening. The city attracts a more discerning type of traveler—people who appreciate art and history but don’t need a selfie in front of every famous statue.

The best thing about Lucca? Its location makes it perfect for day trips to Pisa (25 minutes by train), Florence (an hour), or the Versilia coast (30 minutes). But honestly, once you’re inside those walls, you might not want to leave.

Each morning, as cafés set up their outdoor tables and locals cycle to work, Lucca wakes up without performing for anyone. That authenticity—a real Italian city going about its business—might be the most precious sight of all.

Insider Tips for Experiencing Hidden Italy

Insider Tips for Experiencing Hidden Italy

Best Seasons to Visit Secret Spots

Most travelers make the rookie mistake of hitting Italy in peak summer—when it’s hot as an oven, packed like a tin of sardines, and priced like a luxury yacht rental.

But here’s what the savvy Italian traveler does instead: they go when the locals actually enjoy their own country.

Spring (April-May) works pure magic on those hidden gems. The countryside explodes with wildflowers, the temperatures hover at that perfect “light jacket” level, and those secret towns? They’re just waking up from winter slumber. Visit Matera in late April and you’ll find locals setting up outdoor cafés, restaurants extending their hours, and not another tourist in sight.

Fall (September-October) might be even better. The grape harvest transforms wine regions like Franciacorta and Langhe into bustling hives of activity. The Mediterranean stays warm enough for swimming well into October along the Pugliese coast, but the beaches empty out dramatically after the first week of September.

Winter brings its own secret magic too. While everyone crowds the Christmas markets of northern cities, the southern towns of Sicily come alive with unique religious festivals from December through February. Imagine having ancient Greek ruins in Agrigento practically to yourself while enjoying mild 60°F days.

Here’s a month-by-month breakdown of the perfect times to visit Italy’s secret spots:

Month Best Hidden Region Why It’s Perfect Local Festival Not to Miss
January Sicily Mild weather, zero crowds Feast of Saint Sebastian (Palermo)
February Maremma (Tuscany) Wild, empty beaches Wild boar festivals
March Cilento Budding spring, coastal hikes Santa Maria a Mare celebrations
April Gargano Peninsula Wildflower explosion Angel’s Flight festival
May Lake Orta Perfect temps, pre-tourist season Poetry on the Lake
June Friuli wine country Long days, fresh produce Cantine Aperte wine tours
September Langhe Wine harvest, truffle hunting begins Early Alba Truffle Festival events
October Matera Golden light, perfect hiking weather Festa della Madonna Bruna
November Umbrian hill towns Olive harvest, mists, fireside dining New olive oil celebrations
December Basilicata Christmas traditions, empty landscapes Pittari Living Nativity scenes

I purposely skipped July and August. Trust me on this one. Unless you enjoy melting in 95°F heat while paying triple for accommodations, steer clear.

One traveler’s hack that’s served me well: book trips for the “shoulder weeks”—those magical few days right before high season starts or just after it ends. For example, the last week of May and first week of June offer peak-season beauty without peak-season insanity. Same goes for that golden period in mid-September.

For those truly hidden villages in the Dolomites or deep in Molise? Winter’s dramatic emptiness (November through March) offers a glimpse into real Italian life that summer visitors never experience. You’ll find yourself invited to local homes for dinner simply because you’re the only visitor in town.

Transportation Tricks Only Locals Know

Forget everything you’ve heard about Italian transportation. Those horror stories about impossible train connections and nightmarish driving? They’re mostly from tourists who didn’t get the memo on how Italians actually navigate their country.

First up: trains. Italy’s rail network is vastly more extensive than most tourists realize. Beyond the high-speed Frecciarossa lines connecting major cities, there’s an intricate web of regional trains (Regionale) that reach into those picture-perfect places you’ve never heard of.

The locals’ secret? The Regionale Veloce (RV) trains. These are faster regional services that make fewer stops than standard Regionale trains but cost exactly the same. Look for “RV” on the departure boards. They’ll get you to places like Civita di Bagnoregio or Pitigliano without the premium price tag of high-speed trains.

Another insider move: use the Trenitalia app rather than the website. The app often shows connections and timetables that mysteriously don’t appear on the website. And if you’re planning a longer trip through multiple hidden spots, consider the “Italia in Tour” pass—a little-known flexible ticket that allows unlimited travel for 3, 5, or 7 days.

Now about driving—which you’ll eventually need to do to reach those truly tucked-away treasures. Italians have mastered the art of avoiding ZTL zones (Zona Traffico Limitato). These restricted driving areas in historic centers carry hefty fines if you accidentally enter. The locals’ trick? Park at “parcheggio scambiatore” (interchange parking lots) usually marked with blue “P” signs on the outskirts of towns. They’re cheap (sometimes free), and often connect to shuttle buses into the center.

When driving between towns, Italians rarely take the most direct route that Google Maps suggests. Instead, they use the “strade statali” (state roads) marked with “SS” and a number. These roads often trace ancient routes between towns and offer views the highways never could. Yes, they take longer, but they’re the difference between seeing Italy and merely passing through it.

For those truly hidden coastal spots along Puglia or the Riviera di Ponente? Locals know to use ferries as transportation, not just as a means to reach islands. The coastal ferry services that run along the Adriatic and Ligurian coasts during summer months (May-September) connect fishing villages and hidden beaches that would take hours to reach by car. For instance, the little-known Gargano ferry hop-on/hop-off service lets you explore secluded beaches and coves that remain invisible to road travelers.

The most closely guarded transportation secret? The SITA bus network in regions like Campania, Umbria, and Tuscany. These blue buses reach villages perched on hilltops that trains could never access. Most tourists don’t consider them because schedules are rarely published in English, but they’re often the only public transportation link to those Instagram-worthy hilltop towns.

Here’s how to use them like a local:

  1. Download the local regional bus app (varies by region)
  2. Purchase tickets at “tabacchi” shops (look for the blue T sign) before boarding
  3. Validate your ticket in the machine once on board
  4. Sit near the front and ask the driver to announce your stop

One final transportation trick: shared taxi services known locally as “NCC” (noleggio con conducente). These are essentially private cars with drivers that can be booked for the day, but locals know you can share them with other travelers heading to the same destination for a fraction of the cost. Websites like Hubbub and Scooterino connect travelers to share these rides to hidden destinations.

Language Phrases That Open Doors

Italian is a language of relationships. Unlike English with its direct requests, Italian communication builds connection first, asks for things second. Master this approach, and doors will swing open all across hidden Italy.

Start with “Buongiorno” (good day) or “Buonasera” (good evening)—but don’t just say it once and move on. Italians repeat greetings to everyone they encounter. Enter a small alimentari (grocery store) in a hidden Umbrian village, and you’ll notice locals greeting each person individually. Do this, and you’ve already set yourself apart from 99% of tourists.

Beyond basic greetings, here are specific phrases that work like magic keys in those secret places:

“Sono qui per scoprire il vero spirito del posto” (I’m here to discover the true spirit of this place)

Drop this line when chatting with a local shopkeeper or barista, and watch their eyes light up. It signals that you’re not just another selfie-taking tourist but someone interested in authentic experiences.

“Cosa consiglierebbe a un amico che viene qui?” (What would you recommend to a friend who visits here?)

This phrase works wonders in restaurants off the beaten path. By framing your request as advice they’d give a friend, you’re inviting them to share their personal favorites, not just what they think tourists want.

“C’è un posto qui che solo i locali conoscono?” (Is there a place here that only locals know about?)

I’ve been directed to hidden thermal springs, secret viewpoints, and family-run trattorias so small they don’t even have signs—all by using this simple question. It appeals to locals’ pride in knowing things outsiders don’t.

For those truly hidden villages where English is rare, these practical phrases open experiences:

“Potrebbe parlare un po’ più lentamente, per favore?” (Could you speak a bit more slowly, please?)
Much more effective than asking “Do you speak English?” This shows you’re making an effort.

“Mi piacerebbe assaggiare qualcosa di tipico di questa zona” (I’d like to taste something typical of this area)
Use this in any small-town restaurant without an English menu, and you’ll often receive dishes that aren’t even on the menu—family recipes the chef makes just for locals.

When visiting family-run businesses in tiny towns, this phrase works miracles:
“È un negozio/ristorante di famiglia? Da quanto tempo esiste?” (Is this a family business? How long has it existed?)

Italians take enormous pride in multi-generational businesses, and this question often leads to stories, photos being shared, and sometimes even invitations to see parts of the operation tourists never would.

The most powerful phrase in hidden Italy might be:
“Ho sentito la storia di questo posto da mio nonno/nonna” (I heard about this place from my grandfather/grandmother)

Even if it’s a white lie, suggesting a familial connection to Italy transforms how locals see you. You become someone returning to roots, not just a tourist passing through.

One last language secret: Learn to use Italian diminutives and terms of endearment. Adding “-ino” or “-etto” to words (like “un caffettino” instead of “un caffè”) softens requests and sounds endearing to Italian ears. Similarly, addressing older shopkeepers or restaurant owners as “Nonna” (grandmother) or “Nonno” (grandfather) in small towns often results in special treatment.

Remember, in hidden Italy, language isn’t just about being understood—it’s about being welcomed.

How to Blend In and Experience Authentic Local Life

The true secret to experiencing hidden Italy isn’t just about where you go—it’s about how you behave when you get there. Those picture-perfect moments of locals inviting travelers to join family dinners? They happen to people who understand the unwritten rules of Italian social life.

Start with timing. Italians structure their days completely differently than most other cultures, and syncing with their rhythm immediately sets you apart from the tourist crowds.

Morning coffee is a standing affair at the bar, not a sit-down experience. Between 7:30-9:00am, join locals at the counter of any café. Order simply: “Un caffè, per favore.” Drink it quickly, exchange a few pleasant words about the weather with the barista, and continue your day. This five-minute ritual, performed correctly, immediately identifies you as someone who “gets it.”

Lunch timing is crucial in hidden towns. Restaurants fill with locals from 1:00-2:30pm, then close completely. Arrive at 12:00 (when tourists typically eat) and you’ll be dining alone in an empty restaurant. Arrive at 1:15pm and you’ll be surrounded by locals, often leading to spontaneous conversations.

The evening passeggiata (stroll) remains sacred in smaller Italian towns. Between 6:00-8:00pm, locals of all ages emerge for a slow walk through the main streets. Don’t rush through this with your camera out. Instead, move slowly, stop often, and acknowledge others with a nod. After a few days of joining the passeggiata in a small town like Pizzo or Dozza, locals will begin to recognize and greet you.

Dressing appropriately might seem superficial, but it matters tremendously in how locals perceive you. The key isn’t wearing expensive clothes—it’s about demonstrating respect through appropriate attire. Even in summer heat, Italians rarely wear shorts in cities or towns. Women often carry light scarves to cover shoulders when entering churches. Men wear long pants even on hot days, particularly for dinner.

Some specific behaviors that immediately identify you as someone who respects local customs:

  1. Lower your voice. Americans especially tend to speak at volumes Italians reserve for emergencies. In small-town Italy, animated conversations happen, but at much lower decibels than tourists realize.

  2. Greet shopkeepers when entering AND leaving. The quick “Arrivederci” when departing is just as important as the initial “Buongiorno.”

  3. Don’t touch produce at markets. Point and let the vendor select items for you. When you allow them this small authority, they often select better items than you would and sometimes add extra treats to your purchase.

  4. Take your time. Nothing screams “tourist” like rushing through experiences. In hidden Italy, meals last hours, conversations meander, and appointments are suggestions rather than commitments.

In those secret villages, community life often revolves around unexpected places. The local pharmacy (farmacia) in small towns functions as a community hub where residents discuss everything from politics to family news. Visit for a small purchase, ask a simple health question, and you might find yourself in conversation with a cross-section of local society.

Similarly, the hardware store (ferramenta) in tiny towns often serves as the unofficial information center. Need to know when the hidden chapel on the hill opens? When the shepherd brings fresh cheese to town? The hardware store owner knows everything and everyone.

For deeper immersion, timing your visit around local sagre (food festivals) offers instant community access. These hyper-local celebrations, often dedicated to a single food (mushrooms, truffles, particular cheeses), pull entire communities together. Unlike polished events in tourist centers, sagre in hidden towns are primarily for locals. Show up, purchase a food ticket, and sit at the long communal tables. The family next to you will inevitably include you in their conversation.

Morning routines offer another window into authentic life. The ritual of bread buying happens early (7:00-8:30am) at local forni (bakeries). Join the queue, observe what locals order, and follow suit. After a few mornings, you’ll be greeted like a regular.

Perhaps the most powerful way to blend in: learn to recognize and respect the Italian concept of bella figura. More than just “looking good,” it’s about presenting yourself with dignity and consideration in public spaces. This means not eating while walking, not sitting on church steps to rest, and always maintaining composure even when things go wrong.

One final insider approach: temporarily adopt a “home bar” in any small town where you stay more than two days. Return to the same café each morning and each evening for your coffee and aperitivo. By the third day, they’ll start preparing your order when they see you approaching. By the fifth day, you’ll be introduced to other regulars. This simple consistency creates a temporary social home in even the most hidden corners of Italy.

The ultimate compliment you can receive in secret Italy doesn’t come as words but as an action: when a local introduces you to their friends not as a tourist, but simply by your name. That’s when you know you’ve truly experienced the hidden Italy that most travelers never see.

conclusion

Italy’s remarkable beauty extends far beyond its famous landmarks and tourist hotspots. From Tuscany’s lesser-known villages and Sicily’s pristine coastlines to Northern Italy’s alpine treasures and Puglia’s authentic experiences, these ten secret destinations offer a genuine Italian experience that most travelers miss. Whether you’re drawn to Umbria’s medieval charm, secluded coastal escapes, culinary adventures in small towns, mountain retreats with preserved traditions, or art-filled cities without the crowds, these local favorites provide the perfect alternative to Italy’s overcrowded attractions.

As you plan your next Italian adventure, consider stepping off the beaten path to discover these hidden treasures. Not only will you avoid the tourist crowds, but you’ll also experience Italy as locals do—through authentic cuisine, genuine hospitality, and centuries-old traditions that remain untouched by mass tourism. The real Italy awaits in these secret spots, offering memories and experiences that simply can’t be found in guidebooks or standard itineraries. Buon viaggio!

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